Sunday, December 15, 2019

Korpokkur (aka Tabi Monogatari v16)

Time for yet another pair of mid-calf socks for my hubby.  Using the remainder of my Hamanaka Korpokkur Multi Color yarn and my 4" & 3" Chiaogoo interchangeables US 0 needles, I casted on 50 sts (based on my last Paton's Kroy sock for him).  I tried it on his foot and it fit! ♡
Here's what I did:
1. I started with a Provisional cast on with a total of 50 sts.
2. K 1 straight row on each side, then connected in the round.
3. K 15 rows in the round as part of the foot portion.
4. Started the toes: with 25 sts on each side, splitting it up for 8 sts for big toe, 17 
    sts for remaining toes.
5. Big toe:
  • Row 1:
    • Front: k to the 2nd to the last st, pick up 1 st below, for a total of 9 sts
    • Back: k, pick up a st below, k to the end for a total of 9 sts
  • Row 2: 
    • Front: k, pick up a st, k to the end, for a total of 10 sts
    • Back: k to the last 2 sts, pick up a st below, k for a total of 10 sts
  • Row 3: k
  • Row 4-5 (2 rows): Follow Row 2 until there are 12 sts
  • Row 6-11 (6 rows): k
  • Row 12:
    • Front: k to last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 11 sts
    • Back: SSK, k to the end for a total of 11 sts
  • Row 13:
    • Front: SSK, k to the end for a total of 10 sts
    • Back: k to the last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 10 sts
  • Row 14:
    • Front: k to last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 9 sts
    • Back: SSK, k to the end for a total of 9 sts
  • Row 15: k
  • Row 16:
    • Front: SSK, k to the end for a total of 8 sts
    • Back: k to the last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 8 sts
  • Row 17: k
  • Row 18:
    • Front: k to last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 7 sts
    • Back: SSK, k to the end for a total of 7 sts
  • Row 19:
    • Front: SSK, k to the last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 5 sts
    • Back: SSK, k to the last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 5 sts
  • Row 20: same as row 19 continuing to decrease 2 sts, total of 3 sts on each side
  • Bound off using the Kitchener stitch.
    The big toe came out to 5.5 cm (2 in).
6. The rest of the toes:
  • Row 1: k, picking up 4 sts on each side, for a total of 21 sts
  • Row 2: k
    • Row 3:
      • Front: SSK, k to the end for a total of 20 sts
      • Back: k to the last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 20 sts
    • Row 4: k
    • Row 5:
      • Front: SSK, k to the last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 18 sts
      • Back: SSK, k to the last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 18 sts
    • Row 6: 
      • Front: SSK, k to the end for a total of 17 sts
      • Back: k to the last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 17 sts
    • Row 7:
      • Front: k to the last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 16 sts
      • Back: SSK, k to the end for a total of 16 sts
    • Row 8: 
      • Front: SSK, k to the end for a total of 15 sts
      • Back: k to the last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 15 sts
    • Row 9: 
      • Front: SSK, k to the end, for a total of 14 sts
      • Back: k to the last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 14 sts
    • Row 10: 
      • Front: SSK, k to the end for a total of 13 sts
      • Back: k to the last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 13 sts
    • Row 11: k
    • Row 12-17: same as Row 10 for 12, 11, 10, 9, 8 & 7 sts
    • Row 18:
      • Front: SSK, k to the last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 5 sts
      • Back: ssk, k to the last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 5 sts
    • Row 19: k
    • Row 20: same as Row 19 for 3 sts
    • Bound off using the Kitchener stitch.
        The rest of the toe came out to 4.8 cm (1⅝ in)

    7. Then I went back to the bottom of the provisional cast on and picked up the 
        stitches to start the foot.
    • Row 16: pick up a st from the “front” side and put it on the “back” side; pick up a st from the “back” side, bringing it behind the st picked up from the “front” and put it on the “front” side. K these 2 sts together. Then k in the round. There should be 25 start on each side.
    • Row 17-50 (49 rows): k, maintaining 25 sts on each side
    • Row 51-59 (9 rows): pick up a sts below on each side, maintaining 26 sts on each side
    • Row 60: pick up the first st, 9th st, 18th at & last st on each side for a total of 30 sts
    • Row 61-65 (5 rows): k, maintaining 30 sts on each side
    • Including the initial 15 rows, this came out for a total of 17 cm (6 3/4 in)
    8. With the foot done, I started on the heel portion using the Fish Lips Kiss Heel
    method. 
    • Row 108-119 (12 rows): Follow the Fish Lips Kiss Heel method until you have 10 twin stitches (sts) knits and purls sts on each side and 10 regular sts
    • This came out to 4.5 cm (1 3/4 in).
    • Row 120: as you "boomerang" back to the regular sts, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k2, ktog then continue using the Fish Lips Kiss Heel method for a total of 27 sts
    • Row 121-135 (15 rows): Continue using the Fish Lips Kiss Heel method to turn the heel until you have a total of 27 sts again. 
    • Row 136: 
      • Left side: Since the left side ends on a purl side, k to bring you back to the correct side.
      • Right side: k
    • This came out perfect! :) *yay* :)
    9. With the heel done, I finished off the leg:
    • Row 137: k2tog, k in the round for a total of 29 sts for top side & 28 sts for the back side
    • Row 138-141 (4 rows): k in the round, maintaining a total of 28 &29 sts on each side
    • Row 142: decrease 1 st on the top side for a total of 28 sts on each side
    • Row 143-146 (4 rows): k, maintaining a total of 28 sts on each side
    • Row 147: decrease 1 st on each side for a total of 27 sts on each side 
    • Row 148-171 (29 rows): k, maintaining a total of 27 sts on each side
    • Total length of the leg was 10 cm (4 in)
    10. With the leg done, it was time to cuff; Hubby said he wanted shorter ribbing this 
          time (*yay* homestretch!):
    • Row 172-181 (10 rows): complete cuff using 1x1 ribbing (27 sts on each side)
    • Row 182: add 2 sts to each side for a total of 29 sts and continue 1x1 ribbing
    • Row 183-217 (39 rows): complete cuff using 1x1 ribbing (29 sts on each side) for a total of 10 cm (4 in) of ribbing
    • Bound off using a variation of the Estonian bind off, in which I picked up a stitch from the row below then used the Estonian bind off technique. :) 
    The total length of the leg and cuff was 21 cm (8 1/4 in).

    Yay! Another finished pair! :) And, just in time for our next trip! Now, we can have matching socks! 😁

    Monday, December 2, 2019

    My 2019 Yearly Recap

    I have been so busy with my new job this year that I realized that I have been knitting even less this year! πŸ˜’πŸ˜«

    Let's start recapping by seeing which knitting resolutions I met this year:
    • Rip out my almost perfect yoke sweater and actually make it perfect 😊
      • Well, I did rip it out and finished most of it but since I only had 1 set of 5" US 3 needles a good portion of the year, I was stranded on sleeve island. 😣🀦
      • Lesson Learned: Do not start on a project in which you don't have all the right (or enough) tools/materials!  Since I (re-)started this so long ago and was stranded on sleeve island, I feel like I might have to rip out the one sleeve I did work on so that I can work on both sleeves together (as I normally do) because I don't remember what I did on that one sleeve I worked on!😣🀦
    • Make another sweater - perhaps try a simple fair isle?? or at the very least, a two (2) colour sweater; perhaps two (2) sweaters??πŸ€”
      • This did not happen ... But, I did manage to make one yoke sweater!πŸ‘
    • More socks!🀣
      • This kinda happened ... πŸ˜’πŸ˜« I only managed to make three (12, 3) pairs of socks this year.πŸ˜’πŸ€¦  I'm working on another pair of socks as we speak but, I doubt it's going to get done by the end of this year.πŸ˜’πŸ€¦
    • And on that note - fix my Make Me Happy Socks (it's a tad too short in the foot)πŸ˜’
      • This so did not happen!😭
    • Maybe make more harinezumi for my girls (they did want glittery ones) and maybe one for our (expected) new little one??πŸ€”πŸ˜Š
    • Use more of my stash!
    While I didn't actually knit much (my new job requires a lot of training which meant that I actually didn't have very much knitting time this year since I had to study and recover from jet lag as well as colds I got each! time I traveled!), I did manage to:
    Now, I just need time to knit!  Thankfully, I'm getting more acclimated at my job as the days go by and I only have a few more classes to take; so, hopefully, I'll have more time to knit next year.πŸ€žπŸ€

    So, here's my new year's resolution:
    • Do not start a project in which I do not have (enough of the) right tools and/or materials!
    • Knit more! (to use more stash!)
      • As to what to knit, I'm not sure.  Probably socks (my poor Hubby has finally worn through some of his socks and they desperately need to be replaced; his sock collection is miserably small) ... and I still have two box loads of sweater yarn ... Hmmmm .... πŸ€” Maybe this goal should be empty a box of yarn?? πŸ€”πŸ˜Š
    • Bite the bullet and finish fixing my yoke sweater and my socks! πŸ€¦
    Let's see how well I do next year!πŸ€žπŸ€

    Seaglass (aka Tabi Monogatari v15)

    Time for another pair of mid-calf socks for my hubby.  Using my Cascade in Paton's Kroy Socks and my new 4" & 3" Chiaogoo interchangeables US 0 needles, I casted on 50 sts (based on my last Paton's Kroy sock for him).  I tried it on his foot and it fit! ♡
    Here's what I did:
    1. I started with a Provisional cast on with a total of 50 sts.
    2. K 1 straight row on each side, then connected in the round.
    3. K 15 rows in the round as part of the foot portion.
    4. Started the toes: with 25 sts on each side, splitting it up for 8 sts for big toe, 17 
        sts for remaining toes.
    5. Big toe:
    • Row 1:
      • Front: k to the 2nd to the last st, pick up 1 st below, for a total of 9 sts
      • Back: k, pick up a st below, k to the end for a total of 9 sts
    • Row 2: 
      • Front: k to the 2nd to the last st, pick up 1 st below, for a total of 10 sts
      • Back: k, pick up a st below, k to the end for a total of 10 sts
    • Row 3: k
    • Row 4-5 (2 rows): Follow Row 2 until there are 12 sts
    • Row 6-16 (11 rows): k
    • Row 17:
      • Front: k to last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 11 sts
      • Back: SSK, k to the end for a total of 11 sts
    • Row 18: same as row 17 continuing to decrease 1 st on each side, for a total of 10 sts on each side
    • Row 19: 
      • Front: k2tog, k, to the end for a total of 9 sts
      • Back: k to the last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 9 sts
    • Row 20: k
    • Row 21:
      • Front: k2tog, k to the end for a total of 8 sts
      • Back: k to the last 2 sts, SSK for a total of 8 sts
    • Row 22: k
    • Row 23:
      • Front: k2tog, k to the end for a total of 7 sts
      • Back: k to the last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 7 sts
    • Row 24:
      • Front: k2tog, k to the last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 5 sts
      • Back: SSK, k to the last 2 sts, SSK for a total of 5 sts
    • Row 275: same as row 24 continuing to decrease 2 sts, total of 3 sts on each side
    • Bound off using the Kitchener stitch.
        The big toe came out to 5.5 cm (2 in).
    6. The rest of the toes:
    • Row 1: k, picking up 4 sts on each side, for a total of 21 sts
    • Row 2: k
      • Row 3:
        • Front: k2tog, k to the end for a total of 20 sts
        • Back: k to the last 2 sts, SSK for a total of 20 sts
      • Row 4: k
      • Row 5:
        • Front: k2tog, k to the last 2 sts, ssk for a total of 18 sts
        • Back: ssk. k to the last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 18 sts
      • Row 6: 
        • Front: k2tog, k to the end for a total of 17 sts
        • Back: k to the last 2 sts, ssk for a total of 17 sts
      • Row 7:
        • Front: k to the last 2 sts, ssk for a total of 16 sts
        • Back: ssk, k to the end for a total of 16 sts
      • Row 8: 
        • Front: ssk, k to the end for a total of 15 sts
        • Back: k to the last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 15 sts
      • Row 9: 
        • Front: ssk, k to the end, for a total of 14 sts
        • Back: k to the last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 14 sts
      • Row 10: 
        • Front: ssk, k to the end for a total of 13 sts
        • Back: k to the last 2 sts, ssk for a total of 13 sts
      • Row 11-12 (2 rows): k
      • Row 13-18: same as Row 9-10 for 12, 11, 10, 9, 8 & 7 sts
      • Row 19:
        • Front: k2tog, k to the last 2 sts, ssk for a total of 5 sts
        • Back: ssk, k to the last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 5 sts
      • Row 20-21 (2 rows): k
      • Bound off using the Kitchener stitch.
          The rest of the toe came out to 4.8 cm (1⅝ in)

      7. Then I went back to the bottom of the provisional cast on and picked up the 
          stitches to start the foot.
      • Row 16: pick up a st from the “front” side and put it on the “back” side; pick up a st from the “back” side, bringing it behind the st picked up from the “front” and put it on the “front” side. K these 2 sts together. Then k in the round. There should be 25 start on each side.
      • Row 17-50 (49 rows): k, maintaining 25 sts on each side
      • Row 51-59 (9 rows): pick up a sts below on each side, l lol p pool 0p pplk, maintaining 26 sts on each side
      • Row 60: pick up the first st, 9th st, 18th at & last st on each side for a total of 30 sts
      • Row 61-65 (5 rows): k, maintaining 30 sts on each side
      • Including the initial 15 rows, this came out for a total of 17 cm (6 3/4 in)
      8. With the foot done, I started on the heel portion using the Fish Lips Kiss Heel
      method. 
      • Row 108:
        • Right side: k the “top” portion, moving 1 st from the “back” side for a total of 31 sts; start the heel on the “bottom” portion
        • Left side: pick up 2 sts and move it to the “top” portion for a total of 29 sts then start the heel as you’re already on the “bottom” portion
      • Row 109-120 (12 rows): Follow the Fish Lips Kiss Heel method until you have 10 twin stitches (sts) knits and purls sts on each side and 10 regular sts
      • This came out to 3.5 cm (1 ⅜ in).
      • Row 121-135 (15 rows): Continue using the Fish Lips Kiss Heel method to turn the heel until you have a total of 28 sts again. 
      • Row 136: 
        • Left side: Since the left side ends on a purl side, k to bring you back to the correct side.
        • Right side: k
      • This came out perfect! :) *yay* :)
      9. With the heel done, I finished off the leg:
      • Row 137: k2tog, k in the round for a total of 29 sts for top side & 28 sts for the back side
      • Row 138-141 (4 rows): k in the round, maintaining a total of 28 &29 sts on each side
      • Row 142: decrease 1 st on the top side for a total of 28 sts on each side
      • Row 143-146 (4 rows): k, maintaining a total of 28 sts on each side
      • Row 147: decrease 1 st on each side for a total of 27 sts on each side 
      • Row 148-172 (30 rows): k, maintaining a total of 27 sts on each side
      • Total length of the leg was 9 cm (3 1/2 in)
      10. With the leg done, it was time to cuff; Hubby said he wanted shorter ribbing this 
            time (*yay* homestretch!):
      • Row 173-182 (10 rows): complete cuff using 1x1 ribbing (27 sts on each side)
      • Row 183: add 2 sts to each side for a total of 29 sts and continue 1x1 ribbing
      • Row 184-218 (40 rows): complete cuff using 1x1 ribbing (29 sts on each side) for a total of 10 cm (4 in) of ribbing
      • Bound off using a variation of the Estonian bind off, in which I picked up a stitch from the row below then used the Estonian bind off technique. :) 
      The total length of the leg and cuff was 20 cm (7 1/2 in).

      Yay! Another finished pair! :) And, just in time as he needs more socks! 😜
      Front
      Right
      Back
      Left

      Sweater Weather

      While it's not quite sweater weather where I live, it's definitely time for another sweater! πŸ™Œ. Using my Caron Plum Perfect yarn (I bought this yarn back when I made my very first sweater (in 2014)) and my Denise US8 (5mm) needles, I pulled out my Strange Brew book (which was gifted to me; the book is a-m-a-z-i-n-g!!) and used their basic top-down yoke formula.  I measured myself and found that my chest was 37" which meant that I needed to make a M sized sweater using my DK weight yarn.  Here's what I did:
      1. Cast on 104 sts using the long-tail cast on method.
      2. Work a 1x1 rib for 5 rows.
      3. Follow the set-up round, a total of 120 sts
      4. Next was increasing Round 1 (continue in stockinette st) for 8 rows, totaling 312 sts; in row 6, I realized my gauge was really tight so I switch to US10 (6mm) needles.
      It was time to make sure I was heading in the right direction.  I tried on what little I had and found that the neckline which seemed ok at first, was really stretching out quite a bit; no longer was it a little wider than a crewneck but not quite a boatneck, it was beyond a boatneck and would be falling off my shoulders soon! πŸ˜³πŸ˜’. I re-read my book again and ripped it back out to the ribbing portion.  Then, I changed to my US10 (6mm) needles and redid the set-up and Increase Round 1 again.  Still, it was not coming out right.  So, I emailed tincanknits (the author of the book) and asked them what they thought of my progress.  They answered a few days later (they were at KnitCity - lucky folks!) and provided me more clarification.  Here's what I did:
      1. Rip back to the first Increase Round 1(for a total of 144 sts)
      2. Knit for 8 rows, maintaining 144 sts (using my Chiaogoo US10 (6mm) needles)
      3. Increase Round 2 for a total of 216 sts
      4. Knit for 14 rows, maintaining 216 sts
      5. Increase Round 3 for a total of 264 sts
      6. Knit for 4 rows, maintaining 264 sts
      I found that at this point, it was deep enough to separate for the sleeves.  I skipped Increase Round 4 and the short rows in the back portions (this time around).  It was time for Yoke Separation.
      1. Separate 53 sts for the sleeve, cast on 15 sts, knit 87 sts for the front, separate 53 sts for the other sleeve, cast on 15 sts and knit 70 sts for the back.  The instructions actually said to cast on the same number of sts for the front and back but when I tried that, the back flared out in a weird way so I had to rip it back and used the numbers above.
      2. Knit 5 rows, maintaining 187 sts
      3. It was time to give some shape to the body; *k3, k2tog* 14 times, k3, k2tog, p5, ssk, k3, *k2, k2tog" 17 times, k3, k2tog, p5, ssk, k3 for a total of 149 sts
      4. K72, k2tog, p5, ssk, k53, k2tog, k2, k2tog, p5, ssk, k2 for a total of 144 sts
      5. *K2tog, k2, k2tog, k2, k2tog* 3 times, k2, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k2, *ktog, k2, k2tog, k2, k2tog* 3 times, k, k2tog, p5, ssk, k46, k2tog, k3, k2tog, k, k2tog, p5, ssk, k for a total of 124 sts
      6. Knit 1 row
      7. *K4, k2tog* 5 times, k2, p5, ssk, k2, k2tog, k39, k2tog, k6, p5, k2tog, for a total of 110 sts
      8. Knit 1 row
      9. K2tog, k2, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k6, k42tog, k2, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k8, k2tog, k4, p5, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k2, ssk, p5 for a total of 90 sts
      10. Knit 11 rows.
      It was time for another sweater check.  It fit ... But ... The top portion was puffy and a bit wrinkly in a funny way.  In short, it was terrible!  I ripped everything out back to where I separated for the sleeves and tried again.  Here's what I did:
      1. Separate 53 sts for the sleeves.
      2. K86, p4, k65, p4 for a total of 159 sts
      3. Knit 15 rows
      4. K3, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k4, k2tog, *k8, k2tog*, repeat * 4 times, k2, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k4, ssk, p4, k2tog, k4, k2tog, *k8, k2tog*, repeat * 4 times, k5, ssk, p4, k2tog for a total of 149 sts
      5. Knit 4 rows
      6. K3, k2tog, k3, k2tog, k4, k2tog, *k8, k2tog*, repeat * 4 times, k6, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k2, ssk, p4, k2tog, k3, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k6, k2tog, *k8, k2tog*, repeat * 3 times, k6, ssk, p4, k2tog for a total of 130 sts 
      7. Knit 4 rows
      8. K2tog, k5, k2tog, *k9, k2tog*, repeat * 4 times, k2, ssk, p4, k2tog, k5, k2tog, k, k2tog, *k9, k2tog*, repeat * 3 times,  k8, ssk, p4, k2tog for a total of 120 sts
      9. Knit 40 rows
      10. Purl 1 row
      11. Split for the front (77 sts) and back (53 sts)
      12. Back: 1x1 ribbing starting and ending with a p st; knit for 12 rows
      13. Front: 1x1 ribbing starting and ending with a p st by picking up a st 3 sts before the last st; knit for 6 rows   
      14. Bind off
      Time for the sleeves:
      1. Pick up 6 sts for a total of 59 sts
      2. P2, k55, p2
      3. Knit 15 rows
      Time to do a sleeve check: it seemed to fit fine but ... It was starting to look like one of my other sweaters ... B-o-r-i-n-g ... So, I thought, what if I could put a purl section on top of my shoulder too?  At least it would look a little different than my other sweaters ... So, here's what I did:
      1. The pattern should be: P2, k25, p4, k26, p2
      2. When you get to the p4, rip it all the way back down to the collar and purl it back up from there.  I know ... It sounds crazy  but, it looked a little odd to start it where it was and since I didn't plan it out, I wasn't smart enough/think creatively enough on how to make it more decoratively.
      3. P2, k2tog, k24, ssk, p4, k2tog, k25, ssk, p2 for a total of 55 sts
      4. Knit 2 rows 
      5. *P2, k2tog, k23, ssk, p4, k2tog, k24, ssk, p2* for a total of 51 sts
      6. Knit 2 rows
      7. Repeat * above for 47 sts
      8. Knit 2 rows
      9. Repeat * for 43 sts
      10. Knit 2 rows
      11. Repeat * for 39 sts
      12. Knit 37 rows
      13. Repeat * for 35 rows
      14. Knit 2 rows
      15. Repeat * for 31 rows
      16. Knit 16 rows
      17. 1x1 ribbing for 5 rows
      18. Bind off
      Ta-da!  A finished sweater!

      Front
       Side
       Inside Sleeve
       Inside side
      Back
      Now, it just needs to be cool enough for me to wear it! ❄️☃️

      09/18/20 Up-date: After getting a chance to wear this a few times, I felt that my collar was just a bit too wide.  So, I added four (4) additional rows to decrease the collar from 104 stitches to 54 stitches and used Jenny's Stretchy bind off to bind off. Now, the collar is as it should be. πŸ™Œ πŸŽ‰πŸ‘