Sunday, November 29, 2015

My 2015 Yearly Recap

Another whole year has passed and like last year, I thought it'd be a great idea to sum up (again) with what I've been up to:

What I've made:
  1. Finished my sweater (in December 2015).
  2. Three (3) pairs of socks for my hubby:
  3. wrap for my mother. 
  4. Two (2) pairs of socks for myself:
  5. Participated in (and finished!) a Summer Bag KAL.
  6. Finished a two-part Christmas gift for my friend and dolly blankets for my little cousins (a post on this is coming shortly - don't want to spoil someone's Christmas gift! ;)).
  7. Started working on a "baby" blanket (another post that will be forthcoming (most likely in the new year)).
Other things that also "happened":
  1. I went on a Japan Yarn Crawl.
  2. Bought more stash, stash, stash, and stash!! and toys, (and more) toys!!
  3. Created (and bought) more stitch markers! :)
  4. Received an awesome knitted gift from my friend, D. :)
Thankfully, I didn't manage to injure myself (again) this year! :P  At the very least, I (managed) to learn from last year! :P lol :)

Wow ... Looking back, I'm amazed at how much I have managed to accomplish in a year (although I must admit: It sure doesn't feel like it during the year! :P). :)  And, from my list above, it sure looks like I accomplished my goal from last year to shrink down my sock yarn stash (well, sort of at least!). :)  Frighteningly enough though, I have managed to amass quite a bit of stash this year! *yikes!*  So, it looks like my New Year's resolution for next year is to shrink that sweater stash (and perhaps not add to my stash? - is this possible?? ;P).  We'll see how that turns out! :)  Plus, I need to think about Christmas gifts for next year too! :P

Wish me luck! :)

NaKniSweMo 2015


It's a new year and like last year, Kim from Yarn Story hyped me up for this year's NaKniSweMo - again (if you don't recall, I started my very first sweater last year because of NaKniSweMo).

So, as a way to finally kick start my next sweater (and actually start using some of my sweater yarn stash), I committed myself to join in with Kim's NaKniSweMo group. I've been dying to use my Bamboo Pop Yarn so, I've been trolling through my stitch pattern books to see which one would work with this yarn. Like last year, I want to do another boat neck raglan sweater. This time, I'm thinking I would like a ribbed collar and sleeves and a longer ribbed bottom. I think the key is really to find the right stitch pattern for the sweater though. Kim demoed the exact yarn I had in a linen stitch and while it was beautiful, it felt a little too stiff to me (or else, Kim has a tighter tension than I'd like for my sweater). Then I looked in my Vogue Stitchionary Vol 1 book and found a stitch pattern called Linen Ridge Stitch that looked intriguing. What I'm looking for is a stitch pattern that would show off my yarn, not show up my yarn since it's so cool (and bright! :P). I also trolled the mall to see what sweaters were out and saw a really cool sweater in reverse stockinette stitch (aka all purled) and thought that might work well with this yarn as well.

So, off to making a swatch and washing it! (Washing?! Yes, washing ... :( I had to wash it because it's 50% cotton and 50% bamboo; I would hate to make a sweater that would fit me but not be able to wash it! Gross! :P Or worse, make it to that it fits me perfectly only to have it shrink (or grow#) and not fit when I'm done - Horrors! :'(). I decided that I wanted to try all three stitches to see how I liked it. So, I casted on 60 stitches and started with my Chiaogoo's US 5 Twist Lace needles and did a simple stockinette stitch. After about almost an inch and a half (4 cm), I did a preliminary check; my gauge was 25 sts per 4 inches (10 cm) = 6.25 sts per inch (the "goal" is to get 5.25 sts per inch as stated on the ball band). So I switched out to my Chiaogoo US 4 Spin needles (I don't have it in the Lace - yet ;)), did a 1.5 inches (4 cm) of stockinette and found my gauge to be the same! :( So, thankfully, Kim was having a flash sale on Halloween and I picked these up (knowing that I tend to have the same gauge over the course of several needle sizes):
And did half an inch (4 cm) more using my new Chiaogoo Twist Lace US 4 and found that I still had the same gauge! :( So, I switched to my US 3 needles, did about an inch and found my gauge to be 24.5 sts per 4 inches (10 cm) = 6.125 sts per inch. Getting there ... so, time to switch to my US 3 needles (good thing I had the foresight to pick up all those needles! ;)). With the US 3 needles, and found that I had the same gauge as my US 4 needles. Switching to my US 2 needles, my gauge came out to 27 sts per 4 inches (10 cm) = 6.75 sts per inch! :( I was going down needles sizes instead of up! Duh! 8S So, I switched out to my US 8 needles to see what my gauge would be and it turned out that it was 24 sts per 4 inches (10 cm) = 6 sts per inch. At this juncture, I had to make a decision since I wasn't getting anywhere close the gauge recommended.

I settled on using my US 4 needles and proceeded to (finally) actually swatch the patterns I was interested in. I started with the reverse stockinette stitch then onto the linen ridge stitch and finally the linen stitch. Then, I realized that I wasn't knitting the linen ridge stitch or the linen stitch correctly! (I was wondering why my stitches looked a little funky and didn't look like the stitches in the picture! :'() 

Frustrated, I have admitted defeat - for now.  I've temporarily abandoned this project to work on (and complete) my knitting other projects (yes - crazily enough, I was attempting to do more than one project at a given time).  I will just have to make my own NaKniSweMo (in another month)!

Tabi Monogatari v5

Time for another pair of mid-calf socks for my hubby. Using my US 0 Chiaogoo Bamboo, Munsell Bamboo, Addi Turbo Lace and Knitter's Pride Karbonz needles, I casted on three (3) times! Since I was basing this pair on one I've already made, I had initially casted on 72 sts, just like his first pair of mid-calfs. After a couple of rounds, it just seemed too big (and it was!). So, I ripped it out and casted on again, this time with 68 sts. After remembering my initial experience in which I had casted on too many sts then way too few sts, I figured a four (4) stitch difference would get me closer to the "right" size. Alas, I was wrong, yet again. :'( It was still too big. Finally, I figured it out: this brand is extremely soft and very stretchy so, I'd really have to make it much smaller than his other pair.

So, here's what I did:

  1. I started with a Provisional cast on with a total of 60 sts.
  2. K 1 straight row, then connected in the round.
  3. K 9 rows in the round as part of the foot portion.
  4. Started the toes: with 30 sts on each side, splitting it up for 10 sts for big toe, 20 sts for remaining toes.
  5. Big toe:
    • Left side:
      • Row 1: k
      • Row 2:
        • Front: k, pick up a stitch from the row below, k to last st, pick up another stitch from the row below, k for a total of 12 sts
        • Back: k, pick up a stitch from the row below, k to last st, pick up another stitch from the row below, k for a total of 12 sts
      • Row 3: k
      • Row 4:
        • Front: k, pick up a stitch from the row below, k to last st, pick up another stitch from the row below, k for a total of 14 sts
        • Back: k, pick up a stitch from the row below, k to last st, pick up another stitch from the row below, k for a total of 14 sts
      • Row 5: k
      • Row 6:
        • Front: k to second to the last st, pick up a stitch from the row below, k to the last st for a total of 15 sts
        • Back: k, pick up a stitch from the row below, k to last st for a total of 15 sts
      • Row 7-21: k 
      • Row 22: 
        • Front: k, k2tog tbl, k to the last 2 sts, k2tog, total of 13 sts
        • Back: k, k2tog tbl, k to the last 2 sts, k2tog, total of 13 sts
      • Row 23: same as row 22 continuing to decrease 2 sts, total of 11 sts on each side
      • Row 24: same as row 23 continuing to decrease 2 sts, total of 9 sts on each side
      • Row 25: same as row 24 continuing to decrease 2 sts, total of 7 sts on each side
      • Bound off using the Kitchener stitch.
    • Right side:
      • Row 1: k
      • Row 2:
        • Front: k, pick up a stitch from the row below, k to last st, pick up another stitch from the row below, k for a total of 12 sts
        • Back: k, pick up a stitch from the row below, k to last st, pick up another stitch from the row below, k for a total of 12 sts
      • Row 3-19: k
      • Row 20: 
        • Front: k, k2tog tbl, k to the last 2 sts, ssk, total of 10 sts
        • Back: k, k2tog tbl, k to the last 2 sts, k2tog, total of 13 sts
      • Row 21: same as row 20 continuing to decrease 2 sts, total of 8 sts on each side
      • Row 22: same as row 21 continuing to decrease 2 sts, total of 6 sts on each side
    • Bound off using the Kitchener stitch.
  6. The rest of the toes:
    • Left side:
      • Row 1: 
        • Front: k to the end, picking up 4 sts for a total of 24sts
        • Back: pickup 4 sts and k to the end for a total of 24 sts
      • Row 2:
        • Front: k, k2tog tbl, k to the last 3 sts, ssk, k for a total of 22 sts
        • Back: k2, k2tog tbl, k to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k, for a total of 22 sts
      • Row 3: 
        • Front: k to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k, for a total of 21 sts
        • Back: k, k2tog, k to the end, for a total of 21 sts
      • Row 4: 
        • Front: k, k2tog, k to the end, for a total of 20 sts
        • Back: k to the last 3 sts, ssk, k, for a total of 20 sts
      • Row 5: k
      • Row 6: same as Row 4, continuing to decrease 2 sts, for a total of 19 sts
      • Row 7: same as Row 6, continuing to decrease 2 sts, for a total of 18 sts
      • Row 8: same as Row 7, continuing to decrease 2 sts, for a total of 17 sts
      • Row 9: same as row 8, continuing to decrease 2 sts, for a total of 16 sts
      • Row 10: same as row 9, continuing to decrease 2 sts, for a total of 15 sts
      • Row 11-12: k
      • Row 13-20: same as row 10, continuing to decrease 2 sts, for a total of 14, 13, 12, 11, 10, 9, 8 and 7 sts respectively
      • Row 21: k
      • Bound off using the Kitchener stitch.
    • Right Side:
      • Row 1: 
        • Front: k to the end, picking up 4 sts for a total of 24 sts
        • Back: pickup 4 sts and k to the end for a total of 24 sts
      • Row 2:
        • Front: k, k2tog tbl, k to the last 3 sts, ssk, k for a total of 22 sts
        • Back: k2, k2tog tbl, k to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k, for a total of 22 sts
      • Row 3: 
        • Front: k, k2tog, to the last 3 sts, ssk, k, for a total of 20 sts
        • Back: k, k2tog, k to the last 3 sts, ssk, k for a total of 20 sts
      • Row 4: k
      • Row 5: 
        • Front: k, k2tog tbl, k to the end decreasing 1 sts for a total of 19 sts
        • Back: k to the last 3 sts, ssk, k decreasing 1 sts for a total of 19 sts
      • Row 6: same as Row 5, continuing to decrease 2 sts, for a total of 18 sts
      • Row 7: same as Row 6, continuing to decrease 2 sts, for a total of 17 sts
      • Row 8: same as Row 7, continuing to decrease 2 sts, for a total of 16 sts
      • Row 9: same as Row 8, continuing to decrease 2 sts, for a total of 15 sts
      • Row 10: same as Row 9, continuing to decrease 2 sts, for a total of 14 sts
      • Row 11: k
      • Row 12-19: same as Row 10, continuing to decrease 2 sts, for a total of 13, 12, 11, 10, 9, 8 & 7 sts
    • Bound off using the Kitchener stitch.
  7. Then I went back to the bottom of the provisional cast on and picked up the stitches to start the foot using my bamboo needles (primarily because I might have jury duty and wanted to work on this while stuck in jury duty).
    • Row 10: k, picking up a st at the beginning and end to close off a hole from my provisional cast on for a total of 31 sts
    • Row 11: k2tog tbl on the first 2 and last 2 sts, k for a total of 30 sts
    • Row 12-23: k, maintaining 30 sts on each side
    • Row 24: ssk or k2tog tbl to decrease a st on each side, for a total of 29 sts
    • Row 25: k, maintaining 29 sts
    • Row 26: ssk or k2tog tbl to decrease a st on each side, for a total of 28 sts
    • Row 27-59 (33 rows): k, maintaining 28 sts
    • Row 60: k, m1 on each side, increasing a st on each side for a total of 29 sts
    • Row 61-71 (11 rows): k, maintaining 29 sts on each side
  8. With the foot done, I started on the heel portion using the German short row method: 
    • Row 72: 
      • Front: k, for a total of 29 sts
      • Back: k the first st, pull the working yarn straight up and bring it to the front then to the back (as if to k, creating an extra st), then k to the end, creating 1 ultimate st and 28 regular sts on the RS (right side (aka the knit side))
    • Row 73: turn the sock around so you're looking on the backside, slip the first st, pull the working yarn straight up and bring it to the back then to the front (as if to p, creating an extra st), then p to the second to the last stitch, creating 1 ultimate st and 27 regular sts on the WS (wrong side (aka the purl side))
    • Row 74: slip the second st, pull the working yarn straight up and bring it to the back then to the front (as if to k, creating an extra st), creating the 2nd ultimate st on the RS; then continue to k tbl to the the 2nd to the last st
    • Row 75: slip the second st, pull the working yarn straight up and bring it to the front then to the back (as if to p, creating an extra st), creating the 2nd ultimate st on the WS; then continue to k to the the 2nd to the last st
    • Row 76-87: continue to follow either Row 74 or 75 until you have 8 ultimate sts on both sides and 13 regular sts
    • Row 88-89: pick up a st, p the picked up st and p the first wrapped stitch (aka the 10th ultimate st on the WS) then turned my work around (so that I am now on the RS); k2tog tbl (k the wrapped and picked up st together) and k tbl to the left side
    • Row 90-91: pick up a st, k tbl the picked up st and k tbl the next wrapped stitch (aka the 10th ultimate st on the RS) then turned my work around so that I'm now on the WS; p2tog (this p the wrapped and picked up st together) and p to the right side.
    • Row 92-104: continue to follow Rows 88-89 or 90-91 until all the wrapped stitches were done; picked up sts as needed (anywhere between 2-3 sts) and either k2tog tbl or p2tog as needed to maintain a total of 29 sts (aka the goal is to get back to the original number of sts before starting the heel)
    • This came out perfect! :) *yay* :)
  9. With the heel done, I finished off the leg:
    • Row 105: picked up 2 sts on each side, k in the round for a total of 31 sts
    • Row 106-125 (20 rows): k, maintaining a total of 31 sts on each side
    • Row 126: k and k2tog or ssk at the beginning or end of the round, decreasing 1 sts for a total of 30 sts on each side
    • Row 127-166 (40 rows): k, maintaining 30 sts on each side
  10. With the leg done, it was time to actually finish off the sock with its cuff (*yay* homestretch!):
    • Row 167-226 (60 rows): complete cuff using 1x1 ribbing, for a total of 12 cm (~4.375") of ribbing
    • Bound off using a variation of the Estonian bind off, in which I picked up a stitch from the row below then used the Estonian bind off technique. :)
Look another finished pair! *Yay*! :)
While it did take me quite some time to actually complete this project (a little over two (2) months!), it was done in conjunction with a closet (actually four (4) closets) renovation, another knitting project, NaKniSweMo, and some major overtime at work (which left little brain activity and major eye strain after work).  I hope my next tabi monogatari won't take nearly as long! :)