Tabi Monogatari v4 (aka Whoville Tabi with a touch of the Grinch)

Time for another pair of socks! :)  I'm still giving cotton yarn a whirl so, I'm using my HiKoo by Skacel CoBaSi yarn that I had purchased during my Big Island yarn crawl.  It's 55% Cotton, 21% Nylon (Polyamide), 16% Bamboo, and 8% Silk.  It initially felt like there would be no giving to the yarn as I was winding it into a ball but, as I was casting on and making a test swatch, I found it to be quite stretchy.  I ended up with a gauge of 7.5 sts per 2.5 cm (1 in). So, that means, an arm's length (~5 feet) of yarn completes 66 sts (this is good to know so I know how much yarn to "reserve" when I'm ready to bind off! ;)).

Here's how my sock went:

• I started with a Provisional cast on and after several cast on attempts, I finally figured out that I needed to cast on with a total of 48 sts. That seemed to fit my feet fine (even though it doesn't fit nearly as snuggly as my wool sock).
• K 1 straight row, then connected in the round.
• K 3 rows then another 12 rows in the round as part of the foot portion.
• Started the toes: with 24 sts on each side, splitting it up for 7 sts for big toe, 17 sts for remaining toes.
• Big toe:
• Left side:
• Row 1: m1, k, m1, k, m1, k, m1, k, m1, k, m1, k, m1, k (for a total of 14 sts on each side)
• Row 2:k
• Row 3: k to the 2nd to the last st, m1, k (for a total of 15 sts on each side)
• Row 4-11: k
• Row 12: k, k2tog tbl, k to the last 2 sts, ssk (for a total of 13 sts on each side)
• Row 13: same as row 12 continuing to decrease 2 sts, total of 11 sts on each side
• Row 14: same as row 13 continuing to decrease 2 sts, total of the 9 sts on each side
• Row 15: k
• Row 16: same as row 14 continuing to decrease 2 sts, total of 7 sts on each side
• Row 17: k
• Row 18: same as row 15 continuing to decrease 2 sts, total of 5 sts on each side
• Row 19: k
• Bound off using the Kitchener stitch.
• Right side:
• Row 1: m1, k, m1, k, m1, k, m1, k, m1, k, m1, k, m1, k (for a total of 14 sts on each side)
• Row 2-11:k
• Row 12: k, k2tog tbl, k to the last 2 sts, ssk (for a total of 12 sts on each side)
• Row 13: same as row 12 continuing to decrease 2 sts, total of 10 sts on each side
• Row 14-16: k
• Row 17: same as row 13 continuing to decrease 2 sts, total of the 8 sts on each side
• Row 18-22: k
• Row 23: same as row 17 continuing to decrease 2 sts, total of 6 sts on each side
• Row 24-25: k
• Row 26: same as row 23 continuing to decrease 2 sts, total of 4 sts on each side
• Bound off using the Kitchener stitch.
• The rest of the toes:
• Right side:
• Row 1:
• Front: k, k2tog tbl, k to the end, picking up 3 sts, for a total of 19 sts
• Back: pick up 3 sts, k to the last 2 sts, ssk, k, for a total of 19 sts
• Row 2:
• Front: k, k2tog tbl, k to the last 2 sts, ssk, k, for a total of 17 sts
• Back: k, k2tog tbl, k to the last 2 sts, ssk, k, for a total of 17 sts
• Row 3:
• Front: k, k2tog tbl, k, for a total of 16 sts
• Back: k to the last 2 sts, ssk, k, for a total of 16 sts
• Row 4-10: k
• Row 11:
• Front: k, k2tog tbl, k to the end, for a total of 15 sts
• Back: k to the the last 3 sts, ssk, k for a total of 15 sts on each side
• Row 12: k
• Row 13: same as row 11, continuing to decrease 2 sts, for a total of 14 sts on each side
• Row 14: k
• Row 15: same as row 13, continuing to decrease 2 sts, for a total of 13 sts on each side
• Row 16: k
• Row 17: same as row 15, continuing to decrease 2 sts, for a total of 12 sts on each side
• Row 18: k
• Row 19: same as row 17, 11 sts on each side
• Row 20: k
• Row 21: same as row 19, 10 sts on each side
• Row 22: same as row 21, 9 sts on each side
• Row 23-30: k
• Bound off using the Kitchener stitch.
• Left side:
• Row 1:
• Front: k, k2tog tbl, k to the end, picking up 3 sts, for a total of 19 sts
• Back: pick up 3 sts, k to the last 2 sts, ssk, k, for a total of 19 sts
• Row 2:
• Front: k, k2tog tbl, k to the last 2 sts, ssk, k, for a total of 17 sts
• Back: k, k2tog tbl, k to the last 2 sts, ssk, k, for a total of 17 sts
• Row 3:
• Front: k, k2tog tbl, k, for a total of 16 sts
• Back: k to the last 2 sts, ssk, k, for a total of 16 sts
• Row 4-10: k
• Row 11:
• Front: k, k2tog tbl, k to the end, for a total of 15 sts
• Back: k to the the last 3 sts, ssk, k for a total of 15 sts on each side
• Row 12: k
• Row 13: same as row 11, continuing to decrease 2 sts, for a total of 14 sts on each side
• Row 14: k
• Row 15: same as row 13, continuing to decrease 2 sts, for a total of 13 sts on each side
• Row 16: k
• Row 17: same as row 15, continuing to decrease 2 sts, for a total of 12 sts on each side
• Row 18: same as row 17, 11 sts on each side
• Row 19: k
• Row 20: same as row 19, 10 sts on each side
• Row 21: same as row 21, 9 sts on each side
• Row 22-23: k
• Row 24: same as row 21, 8 sts on each side
• Row 25: k
• Row 26:  same as row 24, 7 sts on each side
• Row 27-28: k
• Bound off using the Kitchener stitch.
• This seemed to come out well (if not a bit funky looking). :P Here's what the toes looks like:

After seeing some progress, my Hubby said the yarn is pretty cool (he was skeptical when I had initially bought it; I thought it was cool looking :P) and said that it looks like a Whoville sock with a touch of the Grinch. Hence, the official name for these socks! :)

• I went back to the provisional cast on and picked up the stitches to start the foot.
• For the left side:
• Row 13: k, you will need to pick up two (2) sts at the end to close up any potential "holes"; there should be 24 sts on the bottom and 26 stitches on the top, slip the last st onto the left needles
• Row 14: k2tog, k to the last 2 sts; knit the last 2 sts together using ssk
• Row 15-61: k, there should be 24 stitches on each side
• For the right side:
• Row 13: k, you will need to pick up a stitch at the end to close up any potential "holes"; there should be 24 on the top and 25 stitches on the bottom
• Row 14: k to the last 2 sts; knit the last 2 sts together using ssk
• Row 15-61: k, there should be 24 stitches on each side
• With the foot done, I started on the heel portion using the German short row method: 
• On the right side:
• Slip all sts knitwise; you should be looking at the wrong side (WS) when done
• Row 62: p the first st, pull the working yarn straight up and bring it to the back then to the front (as if to p, creating an extra st), then p to the end, creating 1 ultimate st and 23 regular sts on the WS (wrong side (aka the purl side))
• Row 63: turn the sock around so you're looking on the frontside, slip the first st, pull the working yarn straight up and bring it to the back then to the front (as if to k, creating an extra st), then k to the second to the last stitch, creating 1 ultimate st and 22 regular sts on the RS (right side (aka the knit side))
• Row 64: slip the second st, pull the working yarn straight up and bring it to the back then to the front (as if to p, creating an extra st), creating the 2nd ultimate st on the WS; then continue to p to the the 2nd to the last st
• Row 65: slip the second st, pull the working yarn straight up and bring it to the front then to the back (as if to k, creating an extra st), creating the 2nd ultimate st on the RS; then continue to ktbl to the the 2nd to the last st
• Row 66-76: continue to follow either Row 64 or 65 until you have 8 ultimate sts on both sides and 8 regular sts
• Row 77-78: pick up a st, k the picked up st and k the first wrapped stitch (aka the 8th ultimate st on the RS): k to the next 8th ultimate sts on the WS then turned my work around (so that I am now on the WS); p2tog (p the wrapped and picked up st together) and p to the left side
• Row 79-80: pick up a st, p the picked up st and p the next wrapped stitch (aka the 8th ultimate st on the WS) then turned my work around so that I'm now on the RS; k2tog (this k the wrapped and picked up st together) and ktbl to the right side.
• Row 81-92: continue to follow Rows 77-78 or 79-80 until all the wrapped stitches were done; picked up sts as needed (anywhere between 2-3 sts) and either k2tog tbl or p2tog as needed to maintain a total of 24 sts (aka the goal is to get back to the original number of sts before starting the heel).
• Row 93: k,slipping the stitches back to the front so you're no longer k tbl.
• On the left side:
• Row 62: on the backside: k the first st, pull the working yarn straight up and bring it to the front then to the back (as if to k, creating an extra st), then k to the end, creating 1 ultimate st and 23 regular sts on the RS (right side (aka the knit side))
• Row 63: turn the sock around so you're looking on the backside, slip the first st, pull the working yarn straight up and bring it to the back then to the front (as if to p, creating an extra st), then p to the second to the last stitch, creating 1 ultimate st and 22 regular sts on the WS (wrong side (aka the purl side))
• Row 64: slip the second st, pull the working yarn straight up and bring it to the back then to the front (as if to k, creating an extra st), creating the 2nd ultimate st on the RS; then continue to ktbl to the the 2nd to the last st
• Row 65: slip the second st, pull the working yarn straight up and bring it to the front then to the back (as if to p, creating an extra st), creating the 2nd ultimate st on the WS; then continue to k to the the 2nd to the last st
• Row 66-76: continue to follow either Row 64 or 65 until you have 8 ultimate sts on both sides and 8 regular sts
• Row 77-78: k 9 sts (the heel sts and the first wrapped stitch (aka the 8th ultimate st on the WS)); then turned my work around (WS), p the knitted 8th ultimate sts on the RS and p 8 sts (the heel sts); then pick up a st, p it, and p the 8th ultimate sts on the other side
• Row 79-80: k2tog tbl the purled 8th ultimate sts and picked up st; k tbl the heel sts (8 sts); then pick up a st, k tbl, k tbl the next wrapped stitch (aka the 7th ultimate st on the RS) then turned my work around so that I'm now on the WS; p2tog (this p the wrapped and picked up st together) and p to the right side.
• Row 81-92: continue to follow Rows 77-78 or 79-80 until all the wrapped stitches were done; picked up sts as needed (anywhere between 2 sts) and either k2tog tbl or p2tog as needed to maintain a total of 24 sts (aka the goal is to get back to the original number of sts before starting the heel)
• Row 93: k, slipping the stitches back to the front so you're no longer k tbl.
• This came out perfect! :) *yay* :)
• With the heel done, I finished off the leg:
• On the right side:
• Row 94: picked up 2 sts on each side, k in the round
• Row 95: k in the round and k2tog tbl on the sides to decrease the sts back to a total of 26 sts on each side
• Row 96-125 (30 rows): k, maintaining a total of 26 sts on the front and back.
• Row 126-185 (60 rows): 1x1 ribbed st (k & p) for a total of 26 sts on each side
• Row 186: m1 using the stitch below the last st and the first st, increasing 2 sts for a total of 27 sts on both sides
• Row 187-191 (5 rows): 1x1 rib sts (k & p), maintaining 27 sts on both sides
• Row 193: m1 using the stitch below the last st and the first st, increasing 2 sts for a total of 28 sts on both sides
• Row 194-195 (2 rows): 1x1 rib sts (k & p), maintaining 28 sts on both sides
• Row 196: m1 using the stitch below the last st and the first st, increasing 2 sts for a total of 29 sts on both sides
• Row 197-198 (2 rows): 1x1 rib sts (k & p), maintaining 29 sts on both sides
• Row 199: m1 using the stitch below the last st and the first st, increasing 2 sts for a total of 30 sts on both sides
• Row 200-201: (2 rows): 1x1 rib sts (k & p), maintaining 30 sts on both sides
• Row 202: m1 using the stitch below the last st and the first st, increasing 2 sts for a total of 31 sts on both sides
• Row 203-204: (2 rows): 1x1 rib sts (k & p), maintaining 31 sts on both sides
• Row 205: m1 using the stitch below the last st and the first st, increasing 2 sts for a total of 32 sts on both sides
• Row 206-207: (2 rows): 1x1 rib sts (k & p), maintaining 32 sts on both sides
• Row 208: m1 using the stitch below the last st and the first st, increasing 2 sts for a total of 33 sts on both sides
• Row 209-210: (2 rows): 1x1 rib sts (k & p), maintaining 33 sts on both sides
• Row 211: m1 using the stitch below the last st and the first st, increasing 2 sts for a total of 34 sts on both sides
• Row 212-213: (2 rows): 1x1 rib sts (k & p), maintaining 34 sts on both sides
• Row 214: m1 using the stitch below the last st and the first st, increasing 2 sts for a total of 35 sts on both sides
• Row 215-216: (2 rows): 1x1 rib sts (k & p), maintaining 31 sts on both sides
• Row 217: m1 using the stitch below the last st and the first st, increasing 2 sts for a total of 36 sts on both sides
• Row 218-219: (2 rows): 1x1 rib sts (k & p), maintaining 36 sts on both sides
• Row 220: m1 using the stitch below the last st and the first st, increasing 2 sts for a total of 37 sts on both sides
• Row 221-222: (2 rows): 1x1 rib sts (k & p), maintaining 37 sts on both sides
• Row 223: m1 using the stitch below the last st and the first st, increasing 2 sts for a total of 38 sts on both sides
• Row 224-231: (8 rows): 1x1 rib sts (k & p), maintaining 38 sts on both sides
• Row 232: decrease 1 sts on each side at the first and last st for a total of 37 sts on both sides
• Row 233-234: (2 rows): 1x1 rib sts (k & p), maintaining 37 sts on both sides
• Row 235: decrease 1 sts on each side at the first and last st for a total of 36 sts on both sides
• Row 236-237: (2 rows): 1x1 rib sts (k & p), maintaining 36 sts on both sides
• Row 238: decrease 1 sts on each side at the first and last st for a total of 35 sts on both sides
• Row 239-248: (10 rows): 1x1 rib sts (k & p), maintaining 35 sts on both sides
• Row 249: decrease 1 sts on each side at the first and last st for a total of 34 sts on both sides
• Row 250-267: (18 rows): 1x1 rib sts (k & p), maintaining 34 sts on both sides
• Row 268: decrease 1 sts on each side at the first and last st for a total of 3 sts on both sides
• Row 269-297: (29 rows): 1x1 rib sts (k & p), maintaining 34 sts on both sides
• On the left side:
• Row 94: picked up 2 sts on each side, k in the round
• Row 95: k in the round and k2tog tbl on the sides to decrease the sts to 26 sts on each side
• Row 96-125: k, maintaining a total of 26 sts on each side
• Row 126-185 (60 rows): 1x1 ribbed st (k & p) for a total of 26 sts on each side
• Row 186: m1 using the stitch below the last st and the first st, increasing 2 sts for a total of 27 sts on both sides
• Row 187-191 (5 rows): 1x1 rib sts (k & p), maintaining 27 sts on both sides
• Row 193: m1 using the stitch below the last st and the first st, increasing 2 sts for a total of 28 sts on both sides
• Row 194-195 (2 rows): 1x1 rib sts (k & p), maintaining 28 sts on both sides
• Row 196: m1 using the stitch below the last st and the first st, increasing 2 sts for a total of 29 sts on both sides
• Row 197-198 (2 rows): 1x1 rib sts (k & p), maintaining 29 sts on both sides
• Row 199: m1 using the stitch below the last st and the first st, increasing 2 sts for a total of 30 sts on both sides
• Row 200-201: (2 rows): 1x1 rib sts (k & p), maintaining 30 sts on both sides
• Row 202: m1 using the stitch below the last st and the first st, increasing 2 sts for a total of 31 sts on both sides
• Row 203-204: (2 rows): 1x1 rib sts (k & p), maintaining 31 sts on both sides
• Row 205: m1 using the stitch below the last st and the first st, increasing 2 sts for a total of 32 sts on both sides
• Row 206-207: (2 rows): 1x1 rib sts (k & p), maintaining 32 sts on both sides
• Row 208: m1 using the stitch below the last st and the first st, increasing 2 sts for a total of 33 sts on both sides
• Row 209-210: (2 rows): 1x1 rib sts (k & p), maintaining 33 sts on both sides
• Row 211: m1 using the stitch below the last st and the first st, increasing 2 sts for a total of 34 sts on both sides
• Row 212-213: (2 rows): 1x1 rib sts (k & p), maintaining 34 sts on both sides
• Row 214: m1 using the stitch below the last st and the first st, increasing 2 sts for a total of 35 sts on both sides
• Row 215-216: (2 rows): 1x1 rib sts (k & p), maintaining 31 sts on both sides
• Row 217: m1 using the stitch below the last st and the first st, increasing 2 sts for a total of 36 sts on both sides
• Row 218-219: (2 rows): 1x1 rib sts (k & p), maintaining 36 sts on both sides
• Row 220: m1 using the stitch below the last st and the first st, increasing 2 sts for a total of 37 sts on both sides
• Row 221-222: (2 rows): 1x1 rib sts (k & p), maintaining 37 sts on both sides
• Row 223: m1 using the stitch below the last st and the first st, increasing 2 sts for a total of 38 sts on both sides
• Row 224-231: (8 rows): 1x1 rib sts (k & p), maintaining 38 sts on both sides
• Row 232: decrease 1 sts on each side at the first and last st for a total of 37 sts on both sides
• Row 233-234: (2 rows): 1x1 rib sts (k & p), maintaining 37 sts on both sides
• Row 235: decrease 1 sts on each side at the first and last st for a total of 36 sts on both sides
• Row 236-237: (2 rows): 1x1 rib sts (k & p), maintaining 36 sts on both sides
• Row 238: decrease 1 sts on each side at the first and last st for a total of 35 sts on both sides
• Row 239-248: (10 rows): 1x1 rib sts (k & p), maintaining 35 sts on both sides
• Row 249: decrease 1 sts on each side at the first and last st for a total of 34 sts on both sides
• Row 250-267: (18 rows): 1x1 rib sts (k & p), maintaining 34 sts on both sides
• Row 268: decrease 1 sts on each side at the first and last st for a total of 3 sts on both sides
• Row 269-297: (29 rows): 1x1 rib sts (k & p), maintaining 34 sts on both sides
• Now that I finished the leg portion, I used the remaining yarn (~7.5 feet or 1.5 of my arm's length) and bound off using a variation of the Estonia bind off, in which I picked up a stitch below then used the Estonian bind off technique.  Amazingly, my bind off (this time) looked crinkly like how it's supposed to! :)

Look!! A finished pair (and it only took me nearly two (2) whole months this time (I was working on this in addition of doing home "minor" home renovations simultaneously. :P))! :)  This time, this pair actually reaches the bottom of my knees! :)

Now, it's time for an easier pair of socks - a pair for my hubby. :)