Tabi no Monogatari Part 8

Since I finished my "test" sock, I've been steadily working on Hubby's left sock. :)  Here's how far I'm at:

Looks like I'm ready to work on the toes!  *yay*

And, here they are!

Look no hole!!!

I basically followed the same pattern I used on my first sock and just altered the toe portion. So, to summarize, here's what I did:

1. I casted on 72 stitches using a knit and purl long tail cast on.
2. For the cuff, I did 6 rows of 2x2 ribbing.  It came out looking a bit short so perhaps 10 rows would look better.
3. For the leg, I also did 6 rows and it definitely was too short.  I think I should try 10 rows on my next sock.
4. For the heel, using the German Short Row method, I did a total of 43 rows.  That came out perfect.  Having 10 ultimate stitches on each side and 15 "regular" stitches makes the perfect heel for Hubby. :)
5. For the foot, I did 69 rows and that gives just enough stretch so that it's snug but not cutting off any blood. :) 
6. Here's how I did the tabi part:
• I had 23 stitches on each side for all other toes (a total of 46 stitches), leaving 13 stitches on each side for the big toe (total 26 stitches). Place the big toe stitches on a stitch holder or a large safety pin. 
• Starting from the "front" or top side of the sock, 
• Rows 1-6, knit to the last 3 stitches, slip slip knit, and knit the last stitch.  This leaves you 22 stitches.  Turn your work around to the "back" or bottom of your sock then, knit, knit 2 together, knit to the end (also leaving you 22 stitches).  Continue to do this for another 5 rows.  By the 6th row, you should have 17 stitches on each side (a total of 34 stitches).
• Rows 7-8: knit.
• Rows 9-10: follow the same instructions as Row 1 for Rows 9 & 10.  You should have a total of 15 stitches on each side (a total of 30 stitches) by the 10th row.
• Row 11: knit.
• Rows 12-13: follow the same instructions as Row 1 for Rows 12 & 13.  You should have a total of 13 stitches on each side (a total of 26 stitches) by the 13th row.
• Row 14: knit.
• Row 15: follow the same instructions as Row 1 for Row 15. You should have a total of 12 stitches on each side (a total of 24 stitches).
• Row 16: knit.
• Row 17: knit, knit 2 together, knit to last 3 stitches, slip slip knit, then knit the last stitch.  You should have a total of 10 stitches on each side (a total of 20 stitches).
• Bind off.  I used the Kitchener stitch to close off the toes just to see how easy or hard it'd be.  It wasn't nearly as hard as I thought it'd be but I did have a few false starts before I finally figured it out. :)
• When you're ready to work on the big toe, pick up all the stitches then starting from the "front" or top of your sock:
• Row 1: knit 1, yarn over, then knit to the last stitch, yarn over, and knit the last stitch; you should have a total of 15 stitches now.  
• Then pick up a stitch from the other toe and knit it. You should have a total of 16 stitches now. 
• Turn it around to the "back side" and pick up a stitch on the back side of the other toe and knit it.  
• Then knit 1, yarn over, knit to the last stitch, yarn over, and knit the last stitch.  You should have a total of 16 stitches. 
• Row 2: Now you're back on the "front" or top of the sock; knit to the last 3 stitches, slip slip knit, and knit the last stitch.  If there still seems to be a hole, pick up another stitch from the other toe and knit it.  If you do pick up another stitch to close the hole, on the back side, pick up a stitch from the back side of the other toe, knit it, then knit 2 together, then knit to the end. 
• Continue Rows 1-2 until the hole seems to be gone.  For me it took 4 rows until the hole seemed to look closed. 
• Then knit another 22 rows. Basically, knit until you're at the top of the toe.  
• For your last row: knit 1, slip slip knit, knit 1, knit 2 together until you have no stitches left. 
• Bind off.  I also used the Kitchener stitch on the big toe.

I must admit, using the Lion Brand yarn is much softer than my junky yarn.  However, with that said, I can't wait to try out my stash! ;)  Once I finish up the toes, I think the other side will be faster.  Then, I can try another ball of yarn. ;P  Although, from the look of it, it looks like I hardly made a dent in this ball.

So the verdict on Top-Down socks ... Well, it's ... ok ... It's neither harder or easier than a Toe-Up sock but, I think that in some way, it's a less accurate way to measure as you go.  While it's true, that you can "try on" the sock as you go using the Top-Down method; because there's no toes, it doesn't quite give you an idea of how much stretch the sock has.  Plus, if you're a new knitter like me, unless you know exactly how many rows you need for the cuff and the leg (and you're trying to customize your sock right off the bat and not completely follow a pattern to its entirety), you can end up with a shorter than expected sock (like this one). :P

Since it looks like I have a lot of yarn left, I think I'm going to try to make another go at a pair of socks again.  It looks like I may be able to squeeze 3 socks out of a ball of yarn. :D  This time, I'm going to try to figure out how to do a Toe-Up tabi sock.  If I can't figure out how to start the toes first, I might do a frankenstein method in which I start the foot part a little bit first (using a provisional cast on), then do the toes, then go back to the foot and move my way up from there. :)