All The Flowers

Back in September, I saw an Instagram post from Amirisu called All The Flowers.  It was an amazing fair isle/mosaic sock pattern.  So amazing that I actually caved and bought a kit for it!😱😁😉🥳  And, I must say ... it was a very expensive kit as it was from Japan and the shipping alone was the price of a skein of sock yarn! 😳🙄

But, I received it today and ... it was worth every penny spent (including shipping).  Here what I got:

Yes, you aren't seeing things, the pattern itself came in a pristine clear folder with a cardboard backing to ensure it didn't bend.  The pattern was perfect - no creases, folds, wrinkles, etc.  It was even printed on heavier weight glossy paper.  

The yarn was also well packaged.  I had initially looked it up to make sure it was a super wash yarn so, when it came in, I wanted to doubled checked the tags again.  And, OMG, you should see!! the tags!😳😱

Aren't the tags so cute?!

Do you see the acorn and cottage cut-out??

Aren't they so amazingly c-u-t-e!?😱🙂😍🥰🥰🥰  I don't think my pictures do it justice and hope you can see the amazing acorn and house cut-out they used to put the tag together.

Onto the actual yarn itself: while it's a Trek base, it says it was hand spun and dyed in Japan:

However, when I look at the label itself, recommends that I hand wash it.  While I'm a little confused if I can really toss this sock in the wash or not, I am looking forward to winding these skeins up and giving my first fair isle/mosaic sock a try! 🤗

Now, here's my tabi no monogatari:

First of all, I modified the toes by using my own tabi toes:

1. Using my Chiagoo US0 needles, cast on a Provisional cast on with a total of 44 sts.
2. K 1 straight row on each side, then join in the round.
3. K 14 rows in the round as part of the foot portion.
4. Started the toes: with 22 sts on each side, splitting it up for 8 sts for big toe, 14 sts for remaining toes.
5. Big toe:

• Row 1:
• Front: k, m1, k to the to the last st, m1, k for a total of  10 sts
• Back: k, m1, k to the to the last st, m1, k for a total of 10 sts
• Row 2-15 (14 rows): k
• Row 16:
• Front: ssk, k to the last 2 sts, k2tog, total of 8 sts
• Back: ssk, k to the last 2 sts, k2tog, total of 8 sts
• Row 17-18 (2 rows): k
• Row 19: same as row 16 continuing to decrease 2 sts, total of the 6 sts on each side
• Row 20-21 (2 rows): k
• Row 22: same as row 21 continuing to decrease 2 sts, total of 4 sts on each side
• Bound off using the Kitchener stitch.

The big toe came out to 4.5 cm (1 3/4").

6. The rest of the toes:

• Row 1:
• Front: k to the end, pick up 4 sts, for a total of 18 sts
• Back: pick up 4 sts, k to the end for a total of 18 sts
• Row 2: k
• Row 3:
  
• Front: ssk, k to the end for a total of 17 sts
• Back: k to the last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 17 sts
• Row 4:
• Front: ssk, k to the end for a total of 16 sts
• Back: k to the last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 16 sts
• Row 5-6 (2 rows): k
• Row 7:
• Front: ssk, k to the end, for a total of 15 sts
• Back: k to the the last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 15 sts
• Row 8: k
• Row 9-18: same as row 7 & 8, continuing to decrease 2 sts, for a total of 14, 13, 12, 11 & 10 sts on each side
  
• Row 19: same as row 9, for a total of 9 sts on each side
• Row 20: same as row 19, for a total of 8 sts on each side
• Row 21: k
• Row 22: ssk, k2, k2tog, k2 for a total of 6 sts on each side
• Row 23: ssk, k2tog, k2 for a total of 4 sts on each side
• Bound off using the Kitchener stitch.

The rest of the toe came out to 5 cm (2 in).

It fits like a glove.

Then I went back to the bottom of the provisional cast on and picked up the stitches to start the foot.

7. Row 15: pick up a st from the “front” side and put it on the “back” side; pick up a st from the “back” side, bringing it behind the st picked up from the “front” and put it on the “front” side. Then k to the 2nd to last st in the round & pick up a sts from below. There should now be 24 sts on each side.
8. Row 16: pick up sts on the 4th, 9th, 15th & 20th sts for a total of 28 sts on each side.
   
9. Row 17-65 (48 rows): Switching to my Chiagoo US2 needles, follow the pattern repeat 4 more times, maintaining 28 sts.
   

Including the initial 14 rows, this came out for a total of 13 cm (5 1/4").

With the foot done, at first, I was stumped on how to create an afterthought heel.  I even picked up a set of Knitting Barbers in hopes I could use that for an afterthought heel.  Alas, I couldn't figure it out so, I decided to just take a chance to just do my standard Fish Lips Kiss Heel method.  Since the method is copyrighted, here's the changes I did to make it work for me:

   10. Row 66: 

• Right side: K the "top" portion, start the heel on the "bottom" portion.
• Left side: start the heel as you're already on the "bottom" portion.

   11. Row 66-106: Follow the Fish Lips Kiss Heel method until you have 9 twin stitch 

         (ts) knits & purls sts on each side and 10 regular sts

It worked as it came out perfectly! 🙂  *yay* 🙂

Turning the heel is always magical and never gets old:

With the heel done, I discovered that I had to switch to a US3 needles to finish off the leg otherwise I couldn't get past the heel!😱😳😔🤦🤷:

   12. Row 107-140 (33 rows): follow the pattern repeat 4 more times, maintaining 28 sts.

Then to finish off the cuffs:
   13. Row 140-144 (5 rows): complete cuff using 1x1 ribbing, maintaining a total of 28 sts for each side.
   14. Switched to US 1.5 needles to bind off using Jenny's stretchy bind off.  The total length of the leg and cuff was 9 cm (3 9/16 in).

And here it is, in all its finished glory (finally):

I must say, making this sock was challenging.  Never in my sock making experience did I EVER imagine that I would EVER need anything larger than a size US0 needle.  It was so shocking to me to have to go up to using US2s and then to US3s for this sock!😱😳🤦  Making this sock was definitely a learning project.👍  I also discovered that yarn colour really does make a huge difference in stranded knitting and that getting into the groove of it made a difference in my knitting.  It's definitely NOT like making a sweater (which is significantly easier than a sock!)!😳🙄 While I had initially fallen in love with the pattern of the sock, now that I actually have a pair of it, I'm not sure if I really love it 🤔 as the pattern doesn't show up very well (it does not look like the picture when it's on my foot!😔😳🙄🤦‍♀️🤷‍♀️).  I know that it could be in part due to the sock colour choices (there isn't enough contrast between the 2 colours and there weren't many colour options to begin with kit-wise) as well as my stranded knitting "technique" (or most likely my lack "technique" as I knew that I was not nearly as consistent with my stranding as I am with my sweaters ).  I don't know if I would ever make this sock again after the perils of what I went through (and how long it took me to actually make this sock (nearly 4.5 months)!😳😱🤦‍♀️; figuring out if I should be doing an afterthought heel (much less how to do an afterthought heel) or if I could simply incorporate my standard Fish Lips heel really had me stumped for the longest time!🤦‍♀️🤦‍♀️🤦‍♀️). 🤔😔🤷‍♀️  I definitely learned that until I have much more stranded socks under my belt, making stranded socks while stressed and distracted is not a good idea! 😳😱😭🤦‍♀️😔🤷‍♀️  I can see all of my inconsistencies on these socks as well as can tell when I stopped and picked it up again.😳😔🤦‍♀️  Perhaps, stranded sock are in my retirement future (or for a future job that's not so demanding and that allows me much more free time & ability to focus more!).🙄🤔

Socks for Mom (母の靴下) (aka Tabi Monogatari v48)

The (original) pair of socks I made for my mom fit! 🥰🎉🧶 And now she wanted a "few more".

So, armed with a template of my mom's feet and using my 4" & 3" Chiaogoo Interchangeable US 0 needles & all of my pink and purple sock stash, here's how her sock stories went: 

1. Cast on a Provisional cast on with a total of 44 sts.
2. K 1 straight row on each side, then join in the round.
3. K 15 rows in the round as part of the foot portion.
4. Then I started the toes: with 22 sts on each side, splitting it up for 11 sts for a swirl toe (16 rows, ending with 4 sts).
5. Then I went back to the bottom of the provisional cast on and picked up the stitches to start the foot.
6. Row 17: pick up a st from the “front” side and put it on the “back” side; pick up a st from the “back” side, bringing it behind the st picked up from the “front” and put it on the “front” side. K these 2 sts together. Then k in the round. There should be 22 sts on each side.
7. Row 19: Pick up 1 st from below on the 1st and 2nd to the last st on each side to add 2 sts for a total of 24 sts on each side
8. Row 20-23 (4 rows): k, maintaining 24 sts
9. Row 24: Pick up 1 st from below on the 2nd to the last st on each side to add 1 st for a total of 25 sts on each side
10. Row 25-28 (4 rows):  k, maintaining 25 sts
11. Row 29: Pick up 1 st from below and the 2nd to the last st on each side for a total of 27 sts (on each side)
12. Row 30-71 (41 rows): k

Including the initial 18 rows, this came out for a total of 13 cm (5 1/4").

With the foot done, I started on the heel portion using the Fish Lips Kiss Heel method.  Since the method is copyrighted, here's the changes I did to make it work for me:

   13. Row 72-103 (22 rows):  Follow the Fish Lips Kiss Heel method until you have 9 twin stitch (ts) knits & purls sts on each side and 9 regular sts
   This came out to 3.5 cm (1 3/8”). 

This came out perfect! 🙂  *yay* 🙂Turning the heel is always magical and never gets old.

 

With the heel done, I finished off the a very short leg and cuff:
   14. Row 104-118 (15 rows): k in the round for a total of 27 sts for each side.
   15. Row 118-142 (25 rows): complete cuff using 1x1 ribbing, for a total of 27 sts             for each side.
   16. Bound off using a variation of the Estonian bind off, in which I picked up a                 stitch from the row below then used the Estonian bind off technique. 🙂

The total length of the leg and cuff was 9 cm (3 1/2").

Look at all these finished pairs! 🎉 *Yay*! 🙂🙌 Now, she hasfive (5) pairs! 🎉

 

Her first pair came out longer because I couldn't count.  I made 45 rows when it should've been 41 rows.  Obviously, I didn't use my foot template to double check! 😳🙄🤦‍♀️ So, I did the most reasonable thing:  I ripped it back to the foot and used my template so that it would be the right length and redid the sock.  Here it is in all of its redone glory:

And here's her Irlanda socks, using the corrected instructions and the template! 😉🙂

For my Watermelon Head socks, I only did 31 rows for the foot since my gauge seemed so much greater than normal before turning the heel.  Then I only did 10 rows for the leg and 19 rows for the cuff before binding off:

For her Grandma's Flower Garden socks, I did 22 rows for the foot before turning the heel; then 10 rows for the leg and 25 rows for the cuff before binding off:

For her Pink Granite socks, I did it exactly like her Grandma's Flower Garden sock since it was the same yarn brand:

Now, my mom should have about a week's worth of socks.  I hope she enjoys them all!🥳🤞🙂🥰

REViVAL

I just finished my last sweater over my holiday break and there were still a few days before the New Year.  It was time to start another sweater since I was still on vacation and I knew we would be spending the next few days binging on Japanese New Year's Eve shows since we were home again this year.  So, after going through my stash and comparing what I had with what patterns was available to me, I decided to take the plunge to use my Debbie Bliss Fine Donegal yarn and trying the REViVAL pattern as the way the shoulders were shaped in a way that was a new to me concept. 

With my Chiaogoo 3.25mm (US3) needles, I casted on for a Size 3 sweater.  While things were looking a little wonky for a bit, I trusted in the pattern and got to splitting the sleeves and body the day after New Years.  Then I went back to work so, working on the body went slowly; since I didn't have enough of the same coloured yarn, I knew that I would have to have a stripped body and by the time I got to the tenth (10th) stripe, I realized that while the Size 3 fits my top portion, it was seeming really big for my torso.  So, for the next eight (8) stripes, I decreased 2 sts on each side (before & after the P sts, for a total of 32 decrease sts, nearly the Size 1) so that it would fit me better.  I have found working on the body very slow going because of the slubbiness of the yarn (and hence the fragileness - I've ripped it at least twice so far!) has made me make sure that I work on this project when I'm not too tired (& hence have a really tight tension!). 😔😱😭🤦🤷

Additionally, because of my very limited yardage (I think I might have enough yarn for this project! 😉😶🤔🤞🍀), I wanted to work on the sleeves and the body at the same time.  However, I only had 3 balls of yarn: 2 in midnight blue and 1 in bark.  So, I had to figure out how I would go about this.  Since I started with 1 of the midnight blues, I figured I would work on the body until I was done with that ball of yarn.  Then using the second midnight blue, I would finish the neck first (instead of last).  So, using my 1.25mm needles, I picked up 122 sts for my neckline and felt that it was too big.  I decided that I wanted more of a Size 2 neckline which meant that I needed to decrease 20 sts.  After spending 30 minutes trying to do the math, I decided to Goofle how to do this and miraculously, I found this website: https://www.worldknits.com/knitting-calculators  It calculated it for me!  Now I was ready to finish the neckline.  I must admit, the instructions for the ribbing was confusing and a bit mind boggling to me at first but, trusting in the pattern, I took it head on (it said to do 1x1 ribbing in Row 1 then K in Row 2 which confused me as it seemed to me that it would break up the ribbing; and based on everyone else's pictures, it all looked like 1x1 ribbing).  Then the short rows threw me off because you had to do was half of one side on the RS then do the other half on the WS.  And working with a dark blue yarn at night to make sure you're doing the WS the right way was definitely a test of my reading comprehension skills AND my ability to convert my understanding to actual knitting!😔😱🤦🤷  After a false start, I was able to figure it out (& more importantly, finish!!🙌👍🥳) the neckline.

Now that the neck was done, I had to decide which to finish next the body first before going back to the sleeves since the yarn was so slubby and fragile (and it was really impossible to knit the body and sleeves at the same time as I initially envisioned unless I separated the balls into at least 2-3 balls). So, I finished the rest of the body (with 194 sts & 6 rows of ribbing using the smaller 1.25mm needles) in five (5) days then proceeded to the sleeves (where I started with 79 sts and finished with 46 sts & 6 rows of ribbing using the smaller 1.25mm needles) which I finished in another seven (7) days.

The sweater came out perfect! 🥰  And it looks great with my jeans!🥰🙌🎉🎊

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