Saturday, May 30, 2020

Rasta Roots (aka Tabi Monogatari v23)

Time for yet another pair of mid-calf socks for my hubby.  Using  my Cascade Heritage Paints hand painted yarn colour 9807 and my 4" & 3" Chiaogoo interchangeables US 0 needles, here's what I did: Follow the instructions used for v22.
1. I started with a Provisional cast on with a total of 50 sts.
2. K 1 straight row on each side, then connected in the round.
3. K 15 rows in the round as part of the foot portion.
4. Started the toes: with 25 sts on each side, splitting it up for 8 sts for big toe, 17 
    sts for remaining toes.
5. Big toe:
  • Row 1:
    • Front: k to the 2nd to the last st, pick up 1 st below, for a total of 9 sts
    • Back: k, pick up a st below, k to the end for a total of 9 sts
  • Row 2: 
    • Front: k, pick up a st, k to the end, for a total of 10 sts
    • Back: k to the last 2 sts, pick up a st below, k for a total of 10 sts
  • Row 3: k
  • Row 4-5 (2 rows): Follow Row 2 until there are 12 sts
  • Row 6-11 (6 rows): k
  • Row 12:
    • Front: k to last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 11 sts
    • Back: SSK, k to the end for a total of 11 sts
  • Row 13:
    • Front: SSK, k to the end for a total of 10 sts
    • Back: k to the last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 10 sts
  • Row 14:
    • Front: k to last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 9 sts
    • Back: SSK, k to the end for a total of 9 sts
  • Row 15: k
  • Row 16:
    • Front: SSK, k to the end for a total of 8 sts
    • Back: k to the last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 8 sts
  • Row 17: k
  • Row 18:
    • Front: k to last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 7 sts
    • Back: SSK, k to the end for a total of 7 sts
  • Row 19:
    • Front: SSK, k to the last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 5 sts
    • Back: SSK, k to the last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 5 sts
  • Row 20: same as row 19 continuing to decrease 2 sts, total of 3 sts on each side
  • Bound off using the Kitchener stitch.
    The big toe came out to 5.5 cm (2 in).
6. The rest of the toes:
  • Row 1: k, picking up 4 sts on each side, for a total of 21 sts
  • Row 2: k
    • Row 3:
      • Front: SSK, k to the end for a total of 20 sts
      • Back: k to the last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 20 sts
    • Row 4: k
    • Row 5:
      • Front: SSK, k to the last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 18 sts
      • Back: SSK, k to the last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 18 sts
    • Row 6: 
      • Front: SSK, k to the end for a total of 17 sts
      • Back: k to the last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 17 sts
    • Row 7:
      • Front: k to the last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 16 sts
      • Back: SSK, k to the end for a total of 16 sts
    • Row 8: 
      • Front: SSK, k to the end for a total of 15 sts
      • Back: k to the last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 15 sts
    • Row 9: 
      • Front: SSK, k to the end, for a total of 14 sts
      • Back: k to the last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 14 sts
    • Row 10: 
      • Front: SSK, k to the end for a total of 13 sts
      • Back: k to the last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 13 sts
    • Row 11: k
    • Row 12-17: same as Row 10 for 12, 11, 10, 9, 8 & 7 sts
    • Row 18:
      • Front: SSK, k to the last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 5 sts
      • Back: ssk, k to the last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 5 sts
    • Row 19: k
    • Row 20: same as Row 18 for 3 sts
    • Bound off using the Kitchener stitch.
        The rest of the toe came out to 4.8 cm (1⅝ in)
    7. Then I went back to the bottom of the provisional cast on and picked up the 
        stitches to start the foot.
    • Row 16: pick up a st from the “front” side and put it on the “back” side; pick up a st from the “back” side, bringing it behind the st picked up from the “front” and put it on the “front” side. K these 2 sts together. Then k in the round. There should be 25 start on each side.
    • Row 17-50 (49 rows): k, maintaining 25 sts on each side
    • Row 51-59 (9 rows): pick up a sts below on each side, maintaining 26 sts on each side
    • Row 60: pick up the first st, 9th st, 18th at & last st on each side for a total of 30 sts
    • Row 61-65 (5 rows): k, maintaining 30 sts on each side
    • Including the initial 15 rows, this came out for a total of 17 cm (6 3/4 in)
    8. With the foot done, I started on the heel portion using the Fish Lips Kiss Heel method
    • Row 108-119 (12 rows): Follow the Fish Lips Kiss Heel method until you have 10 twin stitches (sts) knits and purls sts on each side and 10 regular sts
    • This came out to 4.5 cm (1 3/4 in).
    • Row 120: as you "boomerang" back to the regular sts, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k2, ktog then continue using the Fish Lips Kiss Heel method for a total of 27 sts
    • Row 121-135 (15 rows): Continue using the Fish Lips Kiss Heel method to turn the heel until you have a total of 27 sts again. 
    • Row 136: 
      • Left side: Since the left side ends on a purl side, k to bring you back to the correct side.
      • Right side: k
    • This came out perfect! :) *yay* :)
    9. With the heel done, I finished off the leg:
    • Row 137: k2tog, k in the round for a total of 29 sts for top side & 28 sts for the back side
    • Row 138-141 (4 rows): k in the round, maintaining a total of 28 &29 sts on each side
    • Row 142: decrease 1 st on the top side for a total of 28 sts on each side
    • Row 143-146 (4 rows): k, maintaining a total of 28 sts on each side
    • Row 147: decrease 1 st on each side for a total of 27 sts on each side 
    • Row 148-181 (39 rows): k, maintaining a total of 27 sts on each side
    • Total length of the leg was 11.5 cm (4.5 in)
    10. With the leg done, it was time to cuff; Hubby said he wanted shorter ribbing this 
          time (*yay* homestretch!):
    • Row 182: add 1 st to each side for a total of 28 sts and continue 1x1 ribbing
    • Row 183-21Q7 (39 rows): complete cuff using 1x1 ribbing (28 sts on each side) for a total of 11.5 cm (4.5 in) of ribbing
    • Bound off using a variation of the Estonian bind off, in which I picked up a stitch from the row below then used the Estonian bind off technique. :) 
    The total length of the leg and cuff was 22 cm (9 in).

    Yay! Another finished pair! 🎉 

    Monday, May 25, 2020

    Trials of Making an I-Cord

    Due to COVID-19, I've been working at home.  Since I've been working at home, I was sitting significantly more than I normally do (I normally stand all day at work).  So, Hubby was sweet enough to "donate" one of his cabinets that was just the right height for me to stand and work on:
    However, since I haven't been standing in over a month and a half (at least), my feet hurt. 😢 As I've been contemplating on making a pair of zori for myself, it was (finally) time to do it as my poor feet needed some cushioning. 

    I had rope for the frame of my zori but I wasn't confident that the material I had was "thick" enough to provide cushioning for my feet.  So, I took out my Lucet and proceeded to braid my material.  As I finished a strip, it was squishy but quite thick.  Thinking that I was too thick, I thought perhaps because it was a 4-braid, it would be "thinner" if I made a 3-braid.  So, I took out my Clover Wonder Knitter and tried using that; unfortunately, the material was too thick so, it didn't work at all! 😭  Upon thinking about it further, the Wonder Knitter was essentially an easy way to make an i-cord.  So ... Duh! 🤦 I can knit an i-cord!  I took out my Chiagoo needles and proceeded to make an i-cord.  Unfortunately, that was also too thick! 😭  Then, I began contemplating on cutting the material (I had sewn it into tubes about a million years ago) in half so I would have thinner strips of material instead of these thicker material ... 🤔

    Poor Hubby ... He was watching me do this and finally took the chance and asked me:"What are you trying to do?"  So, I explained to him what I was trying to do and how I was contemplating on cutting the tubes in half.  He told me that if I cut the tubes in half, won't I be making more work for myself?  Did you really want to do that?  Why don't you just try to make it as is since I just wanted a "quick" pair of zori?

    Heeding his advice, I had him cut me two (2) pieces of rope (Wellington Braided Poly-Pro Multi-Purpose Rope Medium Load 3/8in 81 lb load): 1 105 cm for the foot frame & 1 52.5 cm for the foot strap.  Then I proceeded to weave my zori using a book I has purchased in Japan:
    I used 7 strips of material for the footbed and 2 smaller strips for the strap and thong portion.  Here's how it looks:
    I even made a small heel for myself since I tend to stand on my heels more.  Well, I tried it for a week and ... it didn't work out. 😭  The heel felt too hard over the course of wearing it all day; it was also a tad narrow on one side, the strap (on the side that was too narrow) was also too loose, and on the other side, I inadvertently twisted the frame so, there was a weird bump near the thong area.  So, I ripped it out and tried again.  This time, I flipped the straps around thinking that I would have more room to hide all the ends within the slipper than if everything was at the "bottom".  I also wove it a bit looser so I would have spaces where I could weave the ends in.  Here's how it looks:
    After seeing my new pair, Hubby had some zori envy 😍 ... So I made him a pair too.  His frame was 120cm long, had a 60cm strap and used 11 strips total (including using 2 strips to cover the straps & frame).  His pair came out better looking than mine!  And, he's a very good tester so, he'll tell me how well they fit and feel.
    Hopefully, these will work out well and be comfortable ... 🤞

    Sunday, May 24, 2020

    The Dolman Sweater That Never Happened

    I was ready to start another sweater. :)  Something that was in DK weight so that it would be a quick knit.  I had found this pattern: For the Love of Remnants and thought I could just just alter it a little to have longer sleeves.  So here's what I did:
    - Using my mystery berry coloured yarn and my Chiaogoo US8 needles, cast on 160 stitches (65 shoulder/sleeve sts, 30 neckline sts)
    - Pick up 65 sts, cast on 45 sts and pick up another 65 sts.
    - Knit 26 rows (13 on each side of cast on) where the last 5 sts on each side should 
      be k (2 rows) or p (2 rows) to make cuff of sleeve.
    - Three-needle bind off for 25 sts to close off a potion of the sleeve. This is 5" 
       (13 cm) from the initial neck line.

    Body:
    - Row 1-2 (2 rows): Knit in the round (236 sts, 126 in the front, 110 sts in the back).
    - Row 3: *ssk, k2, k2tog, k2, k2tog*, repeat * 5 times, ssk, k2, k2tog, repeat * 17 
      more times for a total of 165 sts (88 sts in the front & 77 sts in the back)
    - Row 4-5 (2 rows): knit in the round, maintaining 165 sts
    - Row 6: *ssk, k2, k2tog, k2, k2tog*, repeat * 3 times, ssk, k, k2tog, k, k2tog, 
      repeat * more times, ssk, k2, k2tog, k5, k2tog, k2, k2tog, repeat * 3 more times 
      for a total of 116 sts (61 sts in the front & 55 sts in the back)
    - Row 7: knit in the round, maintaining 116 sts
    - Row 8: ssk, k to the last 2 sts, k2tog, ssk, k to the last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 
      108 sts (59 in the front  and 49 in the back)
    - Row 9: knit in the round, maintaining 108 sts
    - Row 10: repeat Row 8 for a total of 104 sts (57 sts in the front and 47 sts in the 
      back)
    - Row 11-13 (3 rows): knit in the round
    - Row 14: repeat Row 10 for a total of 100 sts (55 sts in the front and 45 sts in the 
      back)
    - Row 15-17 (3 rows): knit in the round
    - Row 18: repeat Row 14 for a total of 96 sts (53 sts in the front and 43 sts on the 
      back)
    - Row 19-21 (3 rows): knit in the round

    Once I got to this point, I decided to try it on.  It was quite obvious that I should've decreased the stitches much earlier. 😒  In typical fashion, I ripped out the body and most of the stitches on the front side and re-did it like this:
    - Cast on 160 stitches (65 shoulder/sleeve sts, 30 neckline sts)
    - Pick up 65 sts, cast on 45 sts and pick up another 65 sts.
    - Knit 13 rows for the back where the last 5 sts on each side should be k (2 rows) or p (2 rows) to make cuff of sleeves.

    As I was doing this, I just lost steam and didn't want to try this "pattern" any more.😞  In the meantime, I had borrowed The Art of the Circular Yokes book from my local library and found this pattern: Modern Art.  I instantly fell in love with it.

    I ripped out what I did have left on the needles and immediately started on Modern Art instead. 😁

    Initially, I had used the needles recommended but, after a few repeats on the yoke, I realized that the needles were too small.  So, I ripped it out and used a US8 (5.0mm) needles instead; it came out perfectly.  I continued to follow the pattern and actually knit the short rows it recommended for the back shaping.  However, the short rows just came out weird - like I had a little hump on the back.  So, more ripping ensued and in the end, I just took it out altogether.  Overall, this was a relatively quick knit because I used thicker, chunkier yarn. Because of that, my sweater looks bulky but cozy.  It also taught me some important things, particularly about how you can use short rows to improve shaping in certain areas (just not for the back for me on this particular sweater as it recommended).  It also reminded me how easy it is to simply follow a pattern (as long as you read it thoroughly in the beginning so that you can accurately follow it!) instead of figuring things out as you go.

    Now, while I did follow (most of) the pattern, here's a summary of the adjustments I did (you didn't think I was going to follow it exactly did you?):
    1. I skipped the back short rows
    2. For the sleeves (both sides), instead of knitting 10 rows (after picking up stitches for the sleeves), I only did 5 rows then proceeded to do the decreases at every 5 rows instead of every 8 rows and lastly, instead of doing 10 decreases, I did 16 decreases then knit in the round for 12 rows until it reach my wrists (it's bracelet length to account for any "stretching" from washing and drying).
    Here's the dimensions of my sweater:
    • Length from collar to cuff: unwashed 61cm, washed 62.5cm
    • inseam of the sleeve: unwashed 41cm, washed 42 cm
    • Yoke depth: unwashed  21cm, washed 21.5 cm
    And most importantly, here's how it looks!
    Front
    Back
    "Inside" Front
    "Inside" Back
    How I can tell where the "front" is (since the Front & Back looks the same)
    The sweater itself is very thick and quite warm but nice and cozy - very sweatshirt like.😍  Now, all I need is a cold place to wear my sweater! ❄️

    Tuesday, May 12, 2020

    Damn it! I Think I Need to Swatch! 🤦

    I'm currently working on a sweater project using some mystery yarn my Mom's friend had given me.  It was a very nice berry colour and there were a lot of it.  However, there was no label to be found.  I toyed with the idea with doing the burn test with a small bit of the yarn but, I didn't feel confident enough that it would tell me what I really need to know about the characteristics of the yarn.  I think I really needed to make a swatch and actually wash it. 🤦😭

    What to do, what to do??? 🤔😢  I really didn't want to just make a square switch because what would I do with it after it's done??

    Fortunately, Hubby managed to fix my spare Sirka Counter (it was frozen for the past year or so).  But because he added a drop of silicone oil to it, I was worried that it would eventually leak out.  So, as I was searching the web to see how to "fix" it, I came across a Sirka cozy pattern for it.  Eureka! 🎉🙌  I had found my "swatch'.

    I found the pattern a little confusing so, I just used it as a guideline and just made small adjustments to it to fit my Sirka.  In just a few hours, violá! my Sirka cozy was born:
     Front
     Back
    Unwashed
    Washed
    Whoo hoo! 🎉🙌  It didn't shrink or felt!  I can safely throw my sweater in the washer and dryer!  I think it's polyester (not the greatest option but, easy to take care of!). 🤔🙌

    Monday, May 11, 2020

    Zombie Apocolypse (aka Tabi Monogatari v22)

    We're in the midst of the COVID-19 pandemic so, I thought it would be a good time to go through my sock yarn stash. And how appropriate that I had picked up a skien of Dragonfly Yarns called Zombie Apocolypse not too long ago!  Using that yarn and my 4" & 3" Chiaogoo interchangeables US 0 needles, I casted on 50 sts (based on sock v21) and just went for it! ♡ No more fitting - trust in the pattern! ;)
    Here's what I did:
    1. I started with a Provisional cast on with a total of 50 sts.
    2. K 1 straight row on each side, then connected in the round.
    3. K 15 rows in the round as part of the foot portion.
    4. Started the toes: with 25 sts on each side, splitting it up for 8 sts for big toe, 17 
        sts for remaining toes.
    5. Big toe:
    • Row 1:
      • Front: k to the 2nd to the last st, pick up 1 st below, for a total of 9 sts
      • Back: k, pick up a st below, k to the end for a total of 9 sts
    • Row 2: 
      • Front: k, pick up a st, k to the end, for a total of 10 sts
      • Back: k to the last 2 sts, pick up a st below, k for a total of 10 sts
    • Row 3: k
    • Row 4-5 (2 rows): Follow Row 2 until there are 12 sts
    • Row 6-11 (6 rows): k
    • Row 12:
      • Front: k to last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 11 sts
      • Back: SSK, k to the end for a total of 11 sts
    • Row 13:
      • Front: SSK, k to the end for a total of 10 sts
      • Back: k to the last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 10 sts
    • Row 14:
      • Front: k to last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 9 sts
      • Back: SSK, k to the end for a total of 9 sts
    • Row 15: k
    • Row 16:
      • Front: SSK, k to the end for a total of 8 sts
      • Back: k to the last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 8 sts
    • Row 17: k
    • Row 18:
      • Front: k to last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 7 sts
      • Back: SSK, k to the end for a total of 7 sts
    • Row 19:
      • Front: SSK, k to the last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 5 sts
      • Back: SSK, k to the last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 5 sts
    • Row 20: same as row 19 continuing to decrease 2 sts, total of 3 sts on each side
    • Bound off using the Kitchener stitch.
        The big toe came out to 5.5 cm (2 in).
    6. The rest of the toes:
    • Row 1: k, picking up 4 sts on each side, for a total of 21 sts
    • Row 2: k
      • Row 3:
        • Front: SSK, k to the end for a total of 20 sts
        • Back: k to the last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 20 sts
      • Row 4: k
      • Row 5:
        • Front: SSK, k to the last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 18 sts
        • Back: SSK, k to the last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 18 sts
      • Row 6: 
        • Front: SSK, k to the end for a total of 17 sts
        • Back: k to the last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 17 sts
      • Row 7:
        • Front: k to the last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 16 sts
        • Back: SSK, k to the end for a total of 16 sts
      • Row 8: 
        • Front: SSK, k to the end for a total of 15 sts
        • Back: k to the last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 15 sts
      • Row 9: 
        • Front: SSK, k to the end, for a total of 14 sts
        • Back: k to the last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 14 sts
      • Row 10: 
        • Front: SSK, k to the end for a total of 13 sts
        • Back: k to the last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 13 sts
      • Row 11: k
      • Row 12-17: same as Row 10 for 12, 11, 10, 9, 8 & 7 sts
      • Row 18:
        • Front: SSK, k to the last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 5 sts
        • Back: ssk, k to the last 2 sts, k2tog for a total of 5 sts
      • Row 19: k
      • Row 20: same as Row 18 for 3 sts
      • Bound off using the Kitchener stitch.
          The rest of the toe came out to 4.8 cm (1⅝ in)

      7. Then I went back to the bottom of the provisional cast on and picked up the 
          stitches to start the foot.
      • Row 16: pick up a st from the “front” side and put it on the “back” side; pick up a st from the “back” side, bringing it behind the st picked up from the “front” and put it on the “front” side. K these 2 sts together. Then k in the round. There should be 25 start on each side.
      • Row 17-50 (49 rows): k, maintaining 25 sts on each side
      • Row 51-59 (9 rows): pick up a sts below on each side, maintaining 26 sts on each side
      • Row 60: pick up the first st, 9th st, 18th at & last st on each side for a total of 30 sts
      • Row 61-65 (5 rows): k, maintaining 30 sts on each side
      • Including the initial 15 rows, this came out for a total of 17 cm (6 3/4 in)
      8. With the foot done, I started on the heel portion using the Fish Lips Kiss Heel
      method. 
      • Row 108-119 (12 rows): Follow the Fish Lips Kiss Heel method until you have 10 twin stitches (sts) knits and purls sts on each side and 10 regular sts
      • This came out to 4.5 cm (1 3/4 in).
      • Row 120: as you "boomerang" back to the regular sts, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k2, ktog then continue using the Fish Lips Kiss Heel method for a total of 27 sts
      • Row 121-135 (15 rows): Continue using the Fish Lips Kiss Heel method to turn the heel until you have a total of 27 sts again. 
      • Row 136: 
        • Left side: Since the left side ends on a purl side, k to bring you back to the correct side.
        • Right side: k
      • This came out perfect! :) *yay* :)
      9. With the heel done, I finished off the leg:
      • Row 137: k2tog, k in the round for a total of 29 sts for top side & 28 sts for the back side
      • Row 138-141 (4 rows): k in the round, maintaining a total of 28 &29 sts on each side
      • Row 142: decrease 1 st on the top side for a total of 28 sts on each side
      • Row 143-146 (4 rows): k, maintaining a total of 28 sts on each side
      • Row 147: decrease 1 st on each side for a total of 27 sts on each side 
      • Row 148-171 (29 rows): k, maintaining a total of 27 sts on each side
      • Total length of the leg was 10 cm (4 in)
      10. With the leg done, it was time to cuff; Hubby said he wanted shorter ribbing this 
            time (*yay* homestretch!):
      • Row 172-181 (10 rows): complete cuff using 1x1 ribbing (27 sts on each side)
      • Row 182: add 1 st to each side for a total of 28 sts and continue 1x1 ribbing
      • Row 183-217 (39 rows): complete cuff using 1x1 ribbing (28 sts on each side) for a total of 10 cm (4 in) of ribbing
      • Bound off using a variation of the Estonian bind off, in which I picked up a stitch from the row below then used the Estonian bind off technique. :) 
      The total length of the leg and cuff was 21 cm (8 1/4 in).
      Yay! Another finished pair! 🎉 Time to cast on another pair!