Time To Stretch My Skills!

Sometimes, there's just not enough time (or yarn) for everything one wants/needs to make/create.  And, it didn't help that whenever laundry time came around, not having an extra hand towel to use was a pain (how are you to dry your hands after using the bathroom if all the hand towels are in the wash?!).  So, with the remaining Cascades Luna yarn I had (a bit of bright turquoise) from the hand towel I made back in October 2017, I picked up two (2) more skeins in a dark blue from Isle Knit and decided that it was time to make an extra hand towel as well as stretch my knitting skills to see if I could try knitting with two (2) colours at a time.

Now, it's not that I haven't ever knitted with more than one (1) colour before; I've done that quite a few times already although it was done in a much more simplistic way - with stripes or knitting a different colour/yarn on every other row.  What I wanted to stretch my skills with is actually knitting every other stitch in another colour.  So, I looked through all of my stitchonaries and found this: Textured Check pattern from Reversible Two-Color Knitting by Jane F. Neighbors.  It seemed perfect!  So here's what I did:

1. Cast on 51 sts 
2. Moss st for 5 rows 
3. K for 10 rows 
4. Textured Check pattern from Reversible Two-Color Knitting by Jane F. neighbors for 30 rows 
5. K for 30 rows 
6. Place sts on marker (side 1)
7. Cast on 51 sts (side 2)
8. Moss st for 5 rows 
9. K for 10 rows 
10. Textured Check pattern for 31.5 rows 
11. K for 28.5 rows 
12. Bind off using the Kitchener st and weave in ends

Total size: 62 cm x 24 cm (24.5" x 11")
Here's how it came out:

 Front

 Front Texture Stitch

 Back

Back Texture Stitch

Overall, it wasn't as difficult knitting with two (2) colours.  I can see why some people using yarn bobbins if more colours were used and why one would cut segments of yarns.   I can also see why using one would also use a yarn guide too.  While it wasn't very difficult to knit with the two (2) colours without a yarn guide, I wonder if my tension would have been more consistent (or possibly even looser) with a yarn guide. Hmmm ... 🤔 Something to think about ... 😉

Rainbow Brite no Seetaa (レインボーブライトのセーター)

It's the holiday season (in 2017) and it was finally time to start on one of my (many) sweater project(s)!  It was hard to figure out which yarn would be used first in my sweater foray - after all, I have two (2!) whole boxes of sweater projects waiting to be made! :P  I settled for using my Knitting Fever Painted Desert yarns and my Chiaogoo 4" US 3 needles.  And here's how my adventure went along:

First, I had to figure out exactly what kind of sweater I wanted to make.  Because the yarn itself was a colorful gradient-ish yarn, I figured if I made the simplest of sweaters, it could work out nicely with the yarn.  Thus, my first yoke sweater was born.  Then I had to figure out how to actually make it.  After doing a few searches and rummaging around the web a bit, I found: The Yoke-u-lator!  Based on the instructions/"guidance" for The Yoke-u-lator and some guidelines from Ann Budd's Knitter's Handy Book of Top Down Sweaters, here's what I did:

1. Using the Twilight yarn (aka Yarn A), I casted on 210 stitches and joined in the round.
2. Row 1: Start the first round with a 1x1 ribbing using Yarn A.
3. Row 2: Continue 1x1 ribbing pattern using the Maroon yarn (aka Yarn B).
4. Row 3-5 (3 rows): Continue in pattern switching from Yarn A to Yarn B until the ribbing is x cm (x in), ending  in Yarn A.
5. Row 6: With Yarn B, switch to stockinette stitch.
6. Row 7: With Yarn A, continue stockinette stitch, increasing 12 stitches evenly over the  round (additional 17 stitches, total 227)
7. Row 8-10 (3 rows): Starting with Yarn B, k in the round and alternating with Yarn A, ending with Yarn B.
8. Row 11: With Yarn A, increase 11 stitches evenly over the round (additional 20 stitches, for a total of 247).
9. Row 12-16 (5 rows): Starting with Yarn B, k in the round and alternating with Yarn A, ending in Yarn B.
10. Row 17: With Yarn A, increase 11 stitches evenly over the round (additional 22 stitches, for a total of 269).
11. Row 18-26 (9 rows): Starting with Yarn B, k in the round and alternating with Yarn A, ending in Yarn B.
12. Row 27: With Yarn A, increase 11 stitches evenly over the round (additional 24 stitches, for a total of 293).
13. Row 28-30 (3 rows): Starting with Yarn B, k in the round and alternating with Yarn A, ending in Yarn B.
14. Row 31: With Yarn A, increase 6 stitches evenly over the round (additional 49 stitches, for a total of 342).
15. Row 32-42 (11 rows): Starting with Yarn B, k in the round and alternating with Yarn A, ending in Yarn B.
16. Row 43: With Yarn A, increase 12 stitches evenly over the round (additional 28 stitches, for a total of 370).
17. Row 44-56 (13 rows): Starting with Yarn B, k in the round and alternating with Yarn A, ending in Yarn B.
18. Row 57: With Yarn A, increase 12 stitches evenly over the round (additional 30 stitches, for a total of 400).
19. Row 58-66 (9 rows): Starting with Yarn B, k in the round and alternating with Yarn A, ending in Yarn B.
20. Row 67: Time to split the sleeves from the body!  K 119 sts & place a marker; slip 102 sts onto another knitting cable to "make" the first sleeve.  Cast on 43 sts and join it to the "back" side. K 120 sts & place a marker; slip 102 sts onto another knitting cable to "make the second sleeve.  Cast on 43 sts and join it to the "front"s side.
21. Row 68-75 (9 rows): k139, p3, k126, p3, k20 (291 sts)
22. Row 76: k137, k2tog, p3, k126, p3, k20 (290 sts)
23. Row 77-88 (12 rows): k138, p3, k126, p3, k20 (290 sts)
24. Row 89: k136, k2tog, p3, k2tog, k123, k2tog, p3, k2tog, k18 (287 sts)
25. Row 90: k the knits, p the purls (287 sts)
26. Row 91: k135, k2tog, p3, k2tog, k120, k2tog, p3, k2tog, k17 (282 sts)
27. Row 92: k the knits, p the purls (282 sts)
28. Row 93: k134, k2tog, p3, k2tog, k118, k2tog, p3, k2tog, k16 (278 sts)
29. Row 94-224 (130 rows): k the knits, p the purls (278 sts)
30. Row 225-240 (15 rows): k, p to create a 1x1 ribbing (278 sts)
31. Bind off bottom.

As I was nearing the bottom of the sweater, I realized that I would not have enough yarn for the sleeves (much less the rest of the bottom of the sweater!).  So, off I went to the same place in which I picked up Yarn A to buy a substitute variation of it: 30 Egyptian.  While it wasn't quite exactly the same, it was close enough to the coloration and gradation of Yarn A.  It had to do since I needed more yarn for sleeves (and it was seriously my only option anyways)!  

Now time for The Sleeves.  I initially picked up 25 sts for each sleeve and started the sleeves.  As they grew longer, something was just wrong with my sleeves - they were oddly puffy!  So, I ripped out my sleeves and started again.  I found that I had to initially start with a different number of stitches for each sleeve because of the way I had split off everything. So here's how it went:
For the Right side:

1. Picked up 16 sts for a total of 118 sts.
2. R-Sleeve Row 1: k11, p3, k104 (118 sts)
3. R-Sleeve Row 2: Decrease every 5 sts (for a total of 20 sts) except for the p sts & last 3 sts (last 3 sts = k, k2tog) (98 sts)
4. R-Sleeve Row 3-5 (3 rows): k the knits, p the purls (98 sts)
5. R-Sleeve Row 6: Decrease every 5 sts (for a total of 18 sts) except for the p sts (82 sts)
6. R-Sleeve Row 7: k4, k2tog, k, k2tog, p3, k70 (80 sts)
7. R-Sleeve Row 8-20 (13 rows): k the knits, p the purls (80 sts)
8. R-Sleeve Row 21: k8, k2tog, k, k2tog, p3, k2tog, k2, *k6, k2tog*, repeat * 5 times (71 sts)
9. R-Sleeve Row 22: k14, p3, k2tog, k to end (70 sts)
10. R-Sleeve Row 23-110 (88 rows): k the knits, p the purls
11. *R-Sleeve Row 111: k15 (k to the last 2 start), k2tog tbl, p3, k to end (69 sts)
12. R-Sleeve Row 112: k16, p3, k2tog, k to end* (68 sts)
13. R-Sleeve Row 113-120 (8 rows): repeat R-Sleeve Row 111 & 112 alternately, decreasing a total of 8 sts (60 sts)
14. R-Sleeve Row 121-140 (20 rows): k the knits, p the purls (60 sts)
15. R-Sleeve Row 141: k13 (k to the last 2 start), k2tog tbl, p3, k to end (59 sts)
16. R-Sleeve Row 142: k14, p3, k2tog, k to end* (58 sts)
17. R-Sleeve Row 143-150 (8 rows): repeat R-Sleeve Row 141 & 142 alternately, decreasing a total of 8 sts (50 sts)
18. R-Sleeve Row 151-180 (30 rows): k the knits, p the purls (50 sts)
19. R-Sleeve Row 181-190 (10 rows); k. p to create a 1x1 ribbing (50 sts)
20. Bind off.

For the Left side:

1. Picked up 29 sts for a total of 131 sts.
2. L-Sleeve Row 2: k8, k2tog, k1, k2tog, p3, k2tog, k3, *k8, k2tog*, repeat * 9 times (119 sts)
3. L-Sleeve Row 3: k8, k2tog, p3, k to the end (118 sts)
4. L-Sleeve Row 4-5 (2 rows): k the knits, p the purls
5. L-Sleeve Row 6: k4, k2tog, k, k2tog, p3, k2tog, k2, 8k5, k2tog*, repeat * 8 times (99 sts)
6. L-Sleeve Row 7: k10, k2tog, p3, k to end (98 sts)
7. L-Sleeve Row 8-9 (2 rows): k the knits, p the purls
8. L-Sleeve Row 10: k4, k2tog, k3, k2tog, p3, k2tog, k2 , *k4, k2tog*, repeat * 7 times (84 sts)
9. L-Sleeve Row 11: k4, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k2, k2tog, p3, k to the end (80 sts)
10. L-Sleeve Row 12-20 (9 rows): k the knits, p the pursl
11. L-Sleeve Row 21: k8, k2tog, k, k2tog, p3, k2tog, k2, *k8, k2tog*, repeat * 5 times (70 sts)
12. L-Sleeve Row 22-110 (89 rows): k the knits, p the purls
13. L-Sleeve Row 111: k6, k2tog, p3, k to end (69 sts)
14. L-Sleeve Row 112: k7, p3, k2tog tbl, k to end* (68 sts)
15. L-Sleeve Row 113-120: repeat R-Sleeve Row 111 & 112 alternately, decreasing a total of 8 sts (60 sts)
16. L-Sleeve Row 121-140 (20 rows): k the knits, p the purls (60 sts)
17. L-Sleeve Row 141: k4, k2tog, p3, k to end* (59 sts)
18. L-Sleeve Row 142: k3, p3, k2tog, k to end* (58 sts)
19. L-Sleeve Row 143-150 (8 rows): repeat R-Sleeve Row 141 & 142 alternately, decreasing a total of 8 sts (50 sts)
20. L-Sleeve Row 151-180 (30 rows): k the knits, p the purls (50 sts)
21. L-Sleeve Row 181-190 (10 rows); k. p to create a 1x1 ribbing (50 sts)
22. Bind off.

After spending nearly six (6!) months, I finally have another hand-made sweater!  I learned a lot from this sweater like: 1) how I should've used the helix method instead of knitting by rows (there's a "line" on my sweater that won't block out 😒 - thankfully, it's on the "side" of my sweater so, it's not so obvious when I'm wearing it - well, in all honesty, it depends on which angle you're looking at me to see the "line" 😜), 2) I need to better plan out my sweater (versus just winging it at every step of the way) so that I can avoid mistakes (like the line in my sweater or re-doing sleeves three (3!) times!) or ripping out large chunks of my sweater (multiple times) to get it (mostly) right and 3) never finish a sweater at the peak of one of the most humid summers on record so I can take pictures and post my blog in a much more timely manner 😜.

Here's my final steps:

Played yarn chicken 😌 ... And ... (barely) WON)! 👍🤘👊 

It's been washed and being blocked on my Coco Knits Gauge Cloth & Inspinknity blocking wires (looks like that line isn't gonna be blocked out 🙄)

Here's what it looks like completely washed and dried:

Front

Left

Back

Right

Overall, I'm happy with the sweater (although I wish it'd be a bit cooler so I can wear it) and am looking forward to another sweater adventure!  😍

Akachan no Mofu (赤ちゃん の 毛布 - Baby Blanket) #2

I was perusing my stash and wondered what the heck would I ever do with the bright green yarn that my mom had picked up for me (and had gone a bit overboard) while traveling in Taiwan a while ago.  (Back story: I had asked her to pick up 1-2 balls of sock yarn (basically something I could make a pair of socks with) and instead, she (or more likely my Dad) had gone nuts and basically brought home yarn that I couldn't use for a pair of socks! )

So, after much thought and deliberation about what I was going to do with this weird color (it's neon green - like safety/tennis ball green!😵), I decided that I could perhaps make another Akachan no Mofu (赤ちゃん の 毛布 = Baby Blanket) - maybe something with a more modern flare to it.  I looked through my stash and found that my mystery cream yarn plus, the remnants of the Chic blue multi and my Red Heart light grey yarn would be my starter palette.  All I would need to do now is to find 2 more colours to round it out.  So off I went to Walmart to find the remaining two (2) colours and found two (2) skeins of Red Heart Super Saver in a bright turquoise blue and a dark heather grey.

In the meantime, I needed to figure out what pattern I wanted to try out (as I didn't want to use the same pattern I used on my first blanket).  So I scoured through my stitchionaries (I love these kinds of books sooooo much!😍) and in my Vogue Stichtionary Vol. 3, I found the perfect pattern: Stitch#136 Multi Basketweave.  I had borrowed another book from the library: The Essential Guide to Color Knitting Techniques by Margaret Radcliffe where she talked about using patterns in stripes (something that I wanted to do with this blanket) and whaddaya know, she talked about the same pattern and even had a sample of what it would look like in stripes on page 35!  It was destiny! 😍

Based on my previous Akachan no Mofu (赤ちゃん の 毛布), I knew that I would need to cast on 168 sts and would have to make about 298 rows or so to make it (nearly or about) twin sized.  But the only issue was that I had a remnent amount of the multi blue and only two (2) balls of the neon green.  And, I didn't want to swatch both of them to figure out gauge.🙄  So, being brave, I did a little math, sketched out my colour chart and pattern sequence and used this provisional cast on with the cream yarn so that I could start with the blue multi yarn and go from there.  I basically started in the middle and went one way with one colour then go back to the other side and worked that colour.  This way I would know how much of the other colours (light grey, cream, turquoise, and dark heather grey) I would need the limiting colour was the blue multi and neon green.  

So, here's what I did:
The pattern was as follows: the st count is in multiples of 8 sts plus 4 sts (2 sts on each end)

P seq:
Row 1, 3, 5, & 7: K
Row 2, 4, 6, & 8: P2, *K4, P4*, repeat * 13 times, end k2

K seq:
Row 9, 11, 13, & 15: K
Row 10, 12, 14, & 16: K2, *P4, K4*, repeat * 13 times, end P2

Colour chart:
Bind off
dk heather grey = 8 rows of moss st
dk heather grey = 4 K seq & 3 P seq (60 rows)
lt grey = 2 P seq & 2 K seq (32 rows)
turquoise = 3 P seq & 2 K seq (44 rows)
cream = 1.5 P seq & 2 K seq (24 rows)
neon green = 1.5 P seq & 1 K seq (26) rows
cream = 1 P seq & 1 K seq (16 rows)
(Started here) blue multi = 1 P seq & 1 K seq (16 rows)
cream = 1 P seq & 1 K seq (16 rows)
neon green = 1 P seq & 1.5 K seq (20) rows
cream = 2 P seq & 1.5 K seq (28 rows)
turquoise = 2 P seq & 3 K seq (44 rows)
lt grey = 2 P seq & 2 K seq (32 rows)
dk heather grey = 4 P seq & 3 K seq (60 rows)
dk heather grey = 6 row of moss st
Bind off

Total size: 161.25 cm x 109.5 cm (63.5" x 43")

Wow - that was a total of 432 rows!! And it only took me three (3) months to finish this (and I wasn't really working on it daily so, it wasn't really three whole months). I think one of the biggest reason why it was so quick for me to make this is because the stitch pattern was much easier than the one I had chosen for my first blanket.

Here's what this one looks like:

Front

Back 

Now, we just need baby #2 to enjoy it! :P